impossibleway (impossibleway) wrote in knitting,
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Decreasing on Seed Stitch

I'm making a hat in the round using the seed stitch.  I'm about to shape the crown and will need to decrease stitches.  Basically, when I make hats and need to shape the crown, I knit 9, knit 2 together, knit around, knit 8, knit 2 together, knit around, and so on.  I've made loads of hats in plain knit, even in the moss stitch, but this is different. 

Any tips for decreasing and still keeping some resemblance of my pattern?  Would psso-ing work better?
Tags: technique - increase/decrease
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  • 6 comments

amusingthings

October 2 2007, 12:20:37 UTC 7 years ago

My best guess would be to decrease 2 at a time every other round--I'd probably go with a slip 1, k2tog, psso.

tinymich

October 2 2007, 13:27:45 UTC 7 years ago

I'd do sl2-k1-ps2o. Looks more like a stitch.

tchemgrrl

October 2 2007, 13:32:38 UTC 7 years ago

Two slightly different methods I can think of:

One, do a k3tog instead of a k2tog, with twice the number of stitches between (so k19, k3tog; next row k17 k3tog, etc.) That way, you'll be decreasing by one repeat, all in one go, so the pattern won't be disturbed.

Another way to do it is what I think of as the pie-wedge method, which uses matched decreases(example). Again, you'd have your decreases spaced a bit differently, but here you'd go *k9, k2tog, ssk, k9* next row *k8, k2tog, ssk, k8". I think that's the way I'd go personally.

sarakate

October 2 2007, 22:53:34 UTC 7 years ago

I'm going to assume that you *like* your spiral decrease method, and just want to know how to keep the rest of the hat in seed stitch and not have the pattern go all to heck while you do that, rather than change to a different decrease method altogether.

First, let's consider which decrease to use. When you do a k2tog, it leans right, *and* it puts the second stitch on top of the first one. Therefore, in seed stitch, you're going to want to use this where the *second* of the two stitches in your decrease is the knit; if the second one is a purl, you're going to want to use a purl decrease. As for which purl decrease, really, properly, you ought to use an SSP, which would again put the second stitch on top -- but honestly, on the purl side, you almost can't see the lean at all (it's fairly strong on the knit side, but that's the inside of your hat), and if you want to do a p2tog instead, it's not going to really show that you did -- you'll just be able to see that the stitch looks like a purl, and that's going to be enough. If you're a perfectionist, though, and you *want* to use an SSP, it's done by slipping two stitches individually knitwise (*not* purlwise, which would be pointless because it doesn't change anything), putting them back on the left needle, and then purling them together through the back loops.

Once you know which decrease you're doing, all you really need to know is to keep your stitches firmly in pattern based on what kind of stitch you're working into -- if you're working into a purl, you knit, and if you're working into a knit, you purl, and you don't let yourself get worried about the fact that you'll have 2 knits or 2 purls in sequence at the decrease points after the 1st, 3rd, 5th, etc., rounds of decreasing; just hold on, stay in pattern otherwise, and you'll get back into pattern at those points during the 2nd, 4th, 6th, etc., rounds. This gives you a tiny blip of moss stitch in the middle of your seed stitch, and it will not be obtrusive when you're done, but will look just fine.

So! For your first decrease round, assuming you want to work 9 sts, decrease 2, and so forth around, you will: k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, K2TOG, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, P2TOG or SSP, and then repeat all of that around. On your plain round, just keep everything rigidly in pattern -- this means you will be purling twice in a row where you did the first decrease, and knitting twice in a row where you did the second one, and so on, and that is OKAY. On your second decrease round, you have 8 single stitches between decreases, so that will go: k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, K2TOG, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, P2TOG, and so forth, and now you are back in pattern entirely, so your plain round will be easy. Hopefully you can see from there how the rest of the rounds ought to go, but if you get stuck, let me know.

impossibleway

October 3 2007, 00:00:55 UTC 7 years ago

Wow! Thanks for all the options! I'll let you know how it turns out. :-)

berrynana

January 7 2012, 21:26:37 UTC 2 years ago

I know this is an old post but I want o thank u guys as well! I was killing myself trying to figure it out lol