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zabiba15
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zabiba15
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Hello group. Fairly longtime lurker, first time poster here. I'm having some trouble with a pair of socks. I'm doing the skew pattern found here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/skew. My problem is with the finishing. The pattern uses a kitchener stitch for the heel and notes that there will be a hole where the end of that meets the continued knitting. The finishing notes tell you to close the hole using the tail yarn from the kitchener, but I'm wondering if there's a special way to do this. I don't want my finished sock to look like it just got attacked by a yarn monster. I tried searching for something on google, but maybe I'm using the wrong terminology since all I could find was advice on how not to have holes in the first place, or how to darn socks, which seems to leave a bit of a mess. Thoughts? Resources? Thanks!

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karalianne
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karalianne
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Hi everyone! I am knitting my very first socks! *applause*

I am liking it very much so far. I chose Cookie A.'s Monkey Socks from Knitty; someone suggested doing them with no purling, but I'm just doing it as-is. I'll probably do them no purl later.

Anyway!

Here's the deal. I am, of course, making my Very First Socks for myself. I have rather large ankles and calves (to the point that I have a difficult time finding fashionable boots that come up past my ankles), wide feet (C width, which is actually worse than just wide, because they're narrower than most wide shoes and wider than most narrow shoes), size 9 (North American), and I usually wear shorter socks (since knee socks and trouser socks never stay up since they don't fit properly). Oh, and I need a deep toe box and I have poor-ish circulation.

With my oddly-sized feet and ankles and calves in mind, I decided to cast on 80 stitches instead of 64, and this seems to be a good choice; I tried it on after the first lace repeat was finished, and at the point where the cuff felt comfortable but not too tight, I eyeballed approximately how many repeats of the lace I would need to do before it was time to start working on the heel.

I've reached that point, which is great! But I am wondering about turning the heel and completing the foot part of the sock.

The lace pattern requires a multiple of 16 stitches, which is fine. In the original pattern, the heel takes off from one set of 16 stitches, and then is shaped with short rows (yes? that's what it looks like to me, anyway) until the gusset. So then the foot of the sock is three repeats of the lace pattern, and the sole is that one repeat only done in stockinette. The way I have been doing things, I'm going to have the foot of the sock be four repeats of the lace and the sole will be one repeat done in stockinette. Does this make sense, or should I add one more repeat of the lace pattern and put in some decreases somewhere to take it down to the size of the pattern as written? If I do that, where should I put the decreases, and how should I do them? I'll have to get rid of 16 stitches, obviously, and they need to be dropped in the right place - I'm thinking right above where the heel flap is going to start (which I guess is right at the beginning of my round).

She also says that you can work a longer heel flap, which I am guessing I might need, but I'm not sure how to do that or how to know that I need to do so. Does anyone have any tips for figuring this sort of thing out?

I am very good at following patterns, and I expect I'll be able to do the short rows without a problem (I did knit a BSJ without any issues last summer), but this particular aspect of sock sizing has got me stumped.

Thanks for any tips you can offer me!

Edited to add pattern link. Oops!

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browncoatrebel
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browncoatrebel
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I'm working on a pair of Milo socks from Sock Innovation, and I'm a bit confused at the end of the leg directions. I've worked the decreases, and the pattern says "NEXT RND: K 18." What about the other 50 sts? Am I supposed to k18, then proceed with the heel instructions? If so, won't that make my heel uneven?

Help! I'm sure I'm missing something really obvious, but I just cannot figure this out.

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gerimaple
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gerimaple
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A couple of days ago, I asked for help with picking up the wraps for short rows. Several people on the Ravelry group Sock Knitters suggested Priscilla Gibson-Roberts’ short rows with yarn over heel. A couple of people from here made similar suggestions. I found her book at my local library, but all it did was confuse me. I couldn’t find any english-style videos for it (though perhaps I didn't look hard enough because of being overwhelmed by the book), and continental videos are (for me) worse than no video at all.

So I was starting to resign myself to the heels of my socks just looking crappy :( But then while surfing my Ravelry friends’ activity page, I discovered my sister had faved the No Wrap Short Row Heel Tutorial Ravelry link non-Ravelry link. Oh my, what a difference to picking up wraps. Not invisible, but MUCH tidier than the mess I was making before.

It’s kind of similar to the YO heel, but it uses variants of M1 to close the gaps instead of the YO. I love the results.

Thanks again to those who offered help to my original plea. sarakate , thank you in particular for the tutorial on SSK. I'm sure it will come in handy when I get to the toe of this sock.

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gerimaple
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gerimaple
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Is there a way to do Wendy Johnson's double-wrapped short row heel that doesn't result in an ugly mess?

I'm currently working on a pair of socks. My usual go-to pattern is kathrynt 's Universal Sock Pattern, but the current socks are varigated yarn (Cascade Fixation #9172), and the darn stuff is insisting on ugly pooling with the flap-and-gusset heel. So I frogged, and went with the short-row heel from Wendy Johnson's generic toe-up sock. Except the results I get from that are fugly in a different way. Far from the "invisible" short-rows mentioned in the knittinghelp.com video, I end up with a clear line of overstretched stitches with holes between them. So I've been fooling around with worsted weight yarn and US 6 needles, to attempt to figure out what the %$#$@ is going on.

photos of samples under hereCollapse )

Out of curiosity, I tried another sample (also worsted weight on US 6), this time picking up all the knitwise wraps on one row, and all the purlwise wraps on the next row, and I was pleasantly surprised to note that while far from invisible, the results were substantially nicer looking than anything else I've achieved with this technique so far.

more samples under hereCollapse )

I've been using a couple of different references on short rows to try and suss out this mess. First, the the Knitty.com Summer '03 issue for a general discussion on how to do short rows. Then when that wasn't working, I tried the Uniquesheep.com's blog entry on short rows, which suggests that when the wraps are picked up knitwise they should be knit through the back of the loop. Then I went back to the knittinghelp.com video again, which suggested a slightly different method of constructing the wraps (same as the Knitty.com method, but different from Wendy Johnson's), and then finally to this YouTube video on picking up wraps purlwise, which also doesn't seem to have helped any. I'm semi-tempted to give up, but as someone with ... well above C-cup breasts, this technique just seems too potentially useful to consign it to the trash heap.


And as if all that weren't annoying enough, I seem to be doing SSK/k2togtbl wrong, which probably explains why the UniqueSheep.com short row instructions didn't help much. On my flap-and-gusset socks, the k2tog side of the gusset (and both k2tog sides of the wedge toe) turns out beautifully. But the first time I wear new socks, boom, instant ladders on the on the SSK/k2togtbl side of the gusset and both SSK sides of the toes:( Yes, I've tried both variants with the same results. I've even tried picking up the ladders with a crochet hook, but because they aren't actual ladders, they're too tight for that technique to work.

more samples under hereCollapse )

Geez, that was a lot longer-winded than I thought it was going to be.

please help?

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karalianne
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karalianne
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Well, I bought a beautiful ball of variegated green sock yarn at my LYS today. I decided that, even though I'm not finished knitting the scarf/shawl for my friend or crocheting the blanket for my brother and haven't yet started making baby stuff for my friend whose baby is due in May, I would knit my first pair of socks. For myself, of course.

So... I bought some yarn that I love, in a colour that I love, and now I need a pattern! I have a few in my Ravelry queue, but they look a bit more... complex than what I'm looking for.

What's your favourite first-time socks pattern? Free would be lovely, but I'm willing to pay for the pattern if I love it. Obviously it would be good if the pattern will work with variegated yarn.

My skills: I can knit in the round and have made a pair of fingerless mitts (as in, there are no fingers at all, and just a thumb gusset but no thumb); I can knit and purl; I can knit in the round using DPNs (haven't yet tried circulars); the scarf/shawl I'm making is feather & fan and turning out quite nicely; and I'm good at looking up stuff I haven't done before to learn how.

Thanks, everyone! I will, of course, make a post when I'm done!

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knitting
bogiebogie
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Woo hoo, I finished both of my Finn-ish socks! Unfortunately wasn't able to get a photo of the pair because as soon as one was off the needles, it went to Sock Summit and then to Susanna Hansson as a sample. I got to enjoy the second sock for a while and then it went to my LYS as a sample. Some day I'll have them back and maybe I'll even wear them. lol

If you're interested in Finn-ish, here's more information:
Finn-ish sock pattern info
Ravelry link

PhotoCollapse )

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celtic_flicka
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celtic_flicka
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Hi everyone,

I'm pretty much a beginner still, but I've been admiring everyone else's finished work so I decided to post mine. It's not very complicated, compared to what many of you can do, but these are the first projects where I incorporated more than one color, and the first where I attached separate pieces. I used some free online patterns and made some alterations:

Click here for easy yet very cute baby hat and socks!Collapse )

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calvinfamily
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calvinfamily
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I finished knitting my first pair of socks!

Socks should be easy. And the pattern I picked out was. But then I kinda geeked out. First, I used a fingering yarn, 4 ply cotton/bamboo/nylon. Panda Cotton Print by Crystal Palace Yarns. Purchased at Depth of Field Yarn in Minneapolis.

What's a knitting post without pictures???Collapse )

Here's the project link on Ravelry.  Feel free to friend me!

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elktastic
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elktastic
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I finished my last Christmas knitting project this weekend (just in time!) and thought I'd post my lot. I didn't weigh myself down with too many projects this year, which turned out to be a good idea. Most of them were stash busters, anyway.

pictures!Collapse )

We leave Christmas day for a week-long 'vacation,' which includes several hours on a plane. Time to do a little knitting for myself! Dizzy and Diagonal Lace Scarf - anyone have any pointers?

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Current Music: sunday night football

klayre53
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klayre53
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This is an FO of the Log Cabin socks from the book Handknit Holidays.  When I first knit the socks (this is pair #2 for my dad since he felted pair #1 two years ago) I wasn't quite in love with the toe after it was grafted together.  1/2 way through this pair I figured out why.

Basically I didn't like how grafting the last 8 stitches together broke up the nice clean stripes that had formed on each side because of the decreases.  I did it per instructions on the first sock, then on the second sock I decided to experiment.  Instead of following the instructions and grafting the 4 stitches on the top of the foot to the 4 stitches on the bottom of the foot, I divided them in half the other direction.  I grafted the 4 stitches from the left half of the foot to the four on the right half.  I like it much better, I think the look is more seamless.  I may experiment doing this with other sock patterns.

photos...Collapse )

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tvini
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tvini
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gerimaple
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gerimaple
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FO: Autumn Socks
Yarn: Panda Cotton Prints by Crsytal Palace, Fall Herbs colourway
Needles: US 3 for the cuffs, US1 for the rest - both Crystal Palace bamboo
Pattern: kathrynt 's Universal Sock Pattern, Algebraic version

two pics under hereCollapse )

I used Wendy Johnson's generic toe-up sock for the maths to get my stitch count (measure the ball of the wearer's foot, multiply by the gauge from the swatch, deduct 10% for negative ease), then plugged those numbers into Kathryn's pattern where X=1/4 of my stitches. Came out pretty much perfectly, though I think next time I'll pick up a few extra stitches in the gusset because the fabric seems a wee bit stressed near the join (I like *snug* socks).

Anyway, I have a few questions about the pattern.

1) The foot is to be knitted for 4x rounds. approximately where on the foot is the end of the knitting supposed to be at that stage? I have size 9.5 feet, and i have to knit 5x (75) rounds before I'm anywhere near my toes.

2) will using Wendy's maths and Kathryn's pattern (3x rounds to the heel flap, etc, 4x rounds to the toe decreases) result in a reasonable sized sock for a child?

I had a third question last night, but it's escaping me now ;)

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wendolen
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wendolen
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I figured it out -- thanks!

I'm working on a modified version of this, using Judy's Magic Cast-on instead of the short-row toe. I've just reached the heel, and I'm mystified.

Row 1: Knit 29 (31) stitches. Move the working yarn as if to purl. Slip the last, unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle. Turn your work.

Row 2: Slip the first, unworked, stitch from the left needle to the right needle. Purl the next stitch (you will have wrapped that first stitch around its base with the working yarn) and purl across to the last stitch. Move the working yarn as if to knit and slip last stitch. Turn.


When she says "(you will have wrapped that first stitch around its base with the working yarn)", does that mean it should wind up looking like a ssp decrease? When I follow the instructions as I understand them, I end up with the slipped stitch still on the needle beside the first worked one. (This is how I remember the short-row heel working the one other time I knitted socks, so I'm tempted to just forge ahead, but I want to make sure I'm not missing some detail of beautiful efficiency.)

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dyoselin
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dyoselin
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I'm looking to do a simple 2-at-once toe-up using Judy's Magic Cast-On. Can someone please point me to a free simple pattern?

Thanks.

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castalianspring
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These are my first pairs of socks, and already I'm in love with socks and knitting in the round with DPNs.

One pair of Endless Knot mosaic socksCollapse )

And one pair of Leyburn Socks, a stranded pattern to show off variegated yarn...Collapse )

One note and a question: I've noticed I seem to wear out my socks the most on the very bottom of the heel, so I tried knitting the heel turn with two strands of yarn held together as I had seen recommended. It made a nicely thick fabric, but I don't like the way it creates a more pronounced ridge at the edges where I decreased. Is there any other way to make a thicker heel cup that would avoid those ridges? I can tell I'm going to be knitting a lot more socks, so I'd like to be able to find a way to knit a heel cup that won't wear so quickly but not be too bulky at the decreases either.

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clockworktomato
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clockworktomato
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I've been meaning to post some pics of these, now that the lovely recipient has them safely on her own feet. This pattern combines four of my favorite things: small needles, DPNs, cables, and socks knitting.

I knitted up Bayerische for faecat 's Holiday Extravaganza 2007 gift, and I'm ridiculously proud of them!

Knitted in Lang's Jawoll on size 000 (wee tiny and I loved every minute of it) needles. Also, I adore this yarn and I actually squee'd out loud when I found the tiny roll of reinforcement yarn inside as I was winding it on my ball winder. It was like a hidden prize inside the skein!

I loved knitting these. Yes, they were tedious, but there was a lot of satisfaction in each of those tiny cables, and I took away a very, very important skill -- cable knitting without a cable needle! My future cabling projects will go so much more quickly now that I trust my ability to quickly swap around the order of the stitches without fumbling with a third needle. I guess it's moderately unfortunate, since I do have a nice collection of cable needles and I did just buy a lovely set of the Harmony cable needles from Knitpicks, but I'm sure they'll still find their uses in some of the larger cable crosses I'll see in my knitting future!

Here thar be tiny cables!Collapse )

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paperflowers99
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paperflowers99
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Hello fellow knitters, and a happy new year to you all!

I recently acquired some red and white cotton yarn from my folks for Christmas, and have been hard-pressed to find a use for them until it hit me--socks. however, I'd like to attempt some color work aside from simple striping. I wanted to be adventurous and try Fair Isle too, but alas, my attempts to find a free online sock pattern have been in vain. Could one of you recommend a challenging sock pattern?

Also, I've been working on a felted tote bag for school and work, but I was considering jazzing the bag up a little by knitting/crocheting little felted flowers to adorn it. Does anyone know any patterns I could consult for ideas?

Thanks in advance!

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trademehalos
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trademehalos
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I'm knitting these socks. I have never knit socks before... I tried reading some other patterns and they didn't help me figure out this one. I'm at the heel turning part. There are 64 stitches total in cast on, 32 for the heel flap. The section on turning the heel has me k2tog and p2tog for 15 rows...which makes me think I'll have 17 stitches left (or something much less at least than 32). After the heel turning section, the pattern reads "You should have 30 heel stitches" What am I missing? How can I p2tog and k2tog for so many rows and only lose two stitches? I feel like this should be really simple and I'm just not getting it. Thanks for the help!

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fuzzyinthehead
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fuzzyinthehead
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Hey all. I'm an index finger and thumb away from finishing the project from hell. These things have taken almost a year for me to make, even though it only took 20-30 hours of slacker knitting for each one. I will be so happy when I hand them off.

I finally feel free to work on other things. I love making socks but I've never really liked lacy socks. So, oh wonderful knitters, what book would be best for solid sock patterns? By solid, I mean cables, textured stitches, non-lacy stitch patterns and the like, not necessary solid-colored yarn. Though that's cool with me too. :D

Thank you all for the help. The advice here is truly great.

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alison_in_oh
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alison_in_oh
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I've just obtained some lovely tweedy blue sock yarn and I'm in a very sock-knitty mood (as a break from LOTS of worsted weight knitting!) I've knit something like four pairs of simple top-down flap-and-gusset socks, and three-ish pairs of baby-sized top-down short-row socks, and I'm ready for something new. I think I'll do short-row toe-up shaping, but I'd like to incorporate a little something extra in the stitch pattern. Because of the tweedy patterning of the yarn, it'll probably want to be something with a simple texture -- lace and cables will probably get swallowed, I imagine. Any ideas?

Thanks!

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ak_neve
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ak_neve
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Anna's Socks (aka Lombard Street Socks from Magknits):
Start: 03 January 2007.
Finish: 09 January 2007. First FO of the year.
Yarn: Fortissima Socka in Orange, 2 skeins (about 1/4 skein remaining)
Needles: Size 2 Brittany DPNs
Modifications: None.
Socks behind the cut (+6)Collapse )

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Current Location: Roswell, NM

fragglefemme
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fragglefemme
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Hi there :)

I've never knit a sock before. I know I could start with a simple one...I've been googling sock patterns and "How-To's" for over a month now and have seen plenty of "Beginner socks" patterns.

However, I figure why learn one way, when it's not the way I personally want to eventually knit socks? Therefore, I'm going to be stubborn and I want to start out making them the way I want to make them.

This is what I can tell you that I want. I want to make two socks at once on a long circular needle, using the magic circle technique. I will be using the turkish cast-on method. I (obviously) want to make them toe-up. I want my first pair to be anklets. I've done a lot of research on this, but I still feel like I'm missing a crucial part of the equasion.

Given that I want to make them as I stated above, where do I find a pattern on how to make socks like this? I have instructions for the turkish cast-on for two socks on one circular needle, so I feel like I can cast on the toes just fine. But where do I go from there? I figure I just knit until I get to the heel and then I can take a tutorial I have for making heels using magic loop and apply that. Then, I just knit more. Is that really all there is to it? Am I missing something important and crucial that will make this a disaster when I start?

Any guidance would be appreciated :) I bow to your collective expertise *curtsey*

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blakdove
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blakdove
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I've been on a sock kick. So I finished a pair of Knitty's Hedera socks.

Hedera and specifics behind cutCollapse )

Before that, I made a single sock worked in a chevron pattern from Sensational Knitted Socks by Charlene Schurch. I've gotta say this is my favorite sock ever, and I can't wait to complete its mate.

Lonely sockCollapse )

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tiggrmish
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tiggrmish
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Hello,

I'm hoping someone can help me out with that. I'm trying to make the Cinderella version of the special socks pattern on Magknits. This is my first time making baby booties or even anything sock like and I've run into a snag on this step:

Turn Heel
Row 1: K7, place marker, k2, ssk, turn.
Row 2: P to 2 sts past marker, p2tog, turn.
Repeat these 2 rows until 6 sts rem, ending on a p row.


Did row 1 and 2 once no problems - trying to repeat the row like it says and now I don't have enough stiches to finish row 1. Am I only susposed to do what I can and turn or what? I tried to find a page with errors on Magknits but I can't.

Thanks!!

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