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lainiest
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lainiest
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So I've been knitting socks, and I'm finding that I'm having problems with that little 'bump' on the corners of short rows. I did Google and found a few solutions for the bump, but I'm wondering if there's any kind of universally preferred method, which ones people think are easiest, or any other general advice the community can provide.

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gerimaple
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A couple of days ago, I asked for help with picking up the wraps for short rows. Several people on the Ravelry group Sock Knitters suggested Priscilla Gibson-Roberts’ short rows with yarn over heel. A couple of people from here made similar suggestions. I found her book at my local library, but all it did was confuse me. I couldn’t find any english-style videos for it (though perhaps I didn't look hard enough because of being overwhelmed by the book), and continental videos are (for me) worse than no video at all.

So I was starting to resign myself to the heels of my socks just looking crappy :( But then while surfing my Ravelry friends’ activity page, I discovered my sister had faved the No Wrap Short Row Heel Tutorial Ravelry link non-Ravelry link. Oh my, what a difference to picking up wraps. Not invisible, but MUCH tidier than the mess I was making before.

It’s kind of similar to the YO heel, but it uses variants of M1 to close the gaps instead of the YO. I love the results.

Thanks again to those who offered help to my original plea. sarakate, thank you in particular for the tutorial on SSK. I'm sure it will come in handy when I get to the toe of this sock.

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gerimaple
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Is there a way to do Wendy Johnson's double-wrapped short row heel that doesn't result in an ugly mess?

I'm currently working on a pair of socks. My usual go-to pattern is kathrynt's Universal Sock Pattern, but the current socks are varigated yarn (Cascade Fixation #9172), and the darn stuff is insisting on ugly pooling with the flap-and-gusset heel. So I frogged, and went with the short-row heel from Wendy Johnson's generic toe-up sock. Except the results I get from that are fugly in a different way. Far from the "invisible" short-rows mentioned in the knittinghelp.com video, I end up with a clear line of overstretched stitches with holes between them. So I've been fooling around with worsted weight yarn and US 6 needles, to attempt to figure out what the %$#$@ is going on.

photos of samples under hereCollapse )

Out of curiosity, I tried another sample (also worsted weight on US 6), this time picking up all the knitwise wraps on one row, and all the purlwise wraps on the next row, and I was pleasantly surprised to note that while far from invisible, the results were substantially nicer looking than anything else I've achieved with this technique so far.

more samples under hereCollapse )

I've been using a couple of different references on short rows to try and suss out this mess. First, the the Knitty.com Summer '03 issue for a general discussion on how to do short rows. Then when that wasn't working, I tried the Uniquesheep.com's blog entry on short rows, which suggests that when the wraps are picked up knitwise they should be knit through the back of the loop. Then I went back to the knittinghelp.com video again, which suggested a slightly different method of constructing the wraps (same as the Knitty.com method, but different from Wendy Johnson's), and then finally to this YouTube video on picking up wraps purlwise, which also doesn't seem to have helped any. I'm semi-tempted to give up, but as someone with ... well above C-cup breasts, this technique just seems too potentially useful to consign it to the trash heap.


And as if all that weren't annoying enough, I seem to be doing SSK/k2togtbl wrong, which probably explains why the UniqueSheep.com short row instructions didn't help much. On my flap-and-gusset socks, the k2tog side of the gusset (and both k2tog sides of the wedge toe) turns out beautifully. But the first time I wear new socks, boom, instant ladders on the on the SSK/k2togtbl side of the gusset and both SSK sides of the toes:( Yes, I've tried both variants with the same results. I've even tried picking up the ladders with a crochet hook, but because they aren't actual ladders, they're too tight for that technique to work.

more samples under hereCollapse )

Geez, that was a lot longer-winded than I thought it was going to be.

please help?

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lost_button8706
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Edit: Thanks for all the suggestions. I ended up trying the Japanese short rows, and it worked beautifuly. The first tries (with the W&T) the wrap came out so tight by the time I got back to it, that I think trying to knit through it, it stretched out the slipped stitch. At least that's all I can think of. Thanks again for all the suggestions, you guys are awesome :D


I've been working on the Owls sweater www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/owls-2# (my first sweater, though I've been knitting for several years). But I just got to the short row part, and one side is giving me trouble.

pictures and description hereCollapse )
Please, please, please, any help is appreaciated.

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bungalow10
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I'm so proud of these shorties. They are the third pair I've made since I started knitting in February, and I think they are pretty darn close to perfect :)

I used the Picky Pants pattern, with an elastic waist. I did backside increases and short rows. I used the short row method from the Wooly Wonder forum and I think it is the best method I've tried yet. I ripped my short rows out three times in this pair, but the fourth time I was satisfied.

The yarn is organic merino from RoNevEli's at iCrave. I think the colorway was Jewel of the Nile. I super duper loved this yarn, it makes me not want to knit anything else with 100PureWool. It is much thicker, softer, and less prone to splitting.

Besides the new short row technique, I also learned to magic loop with these shorties. Oh, and I did the splitting and felting method of joining in new yarn... it actually saved me when I was grafting the crotch closed. I would have had to start over if I had not known about that technique of joining new yarn. I should also note that the Picky Pants pattern has you graft 10 stitches when closing the gusset, but when I do it I pick up an extra stitch on each side, grafting 12 instead of 10. This leaves less of a gap on each side where the gusset meets the leg.
On to the pictures...Collapse )

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nammer
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I recently took a class with Lucy Neatby focused on sock construction techniques; it gave me a great excuse to finally get her fun sock book Cool Socks, Warm Feet. I highly recommend the book if the "why" of knitting fascinates you - though it contans just a few patterns, Lucy offers lots of interesting variations and discussions of technique that are fascinating.

Though I do plan to knit her Fiesta Feet soon (not in the book, but the pattern I think of when I hear Lucy's name), my first choice was the Timberline Toes, which features a garter stitch short row heel - that's a link to a PDF tutorial from INKnitters by Lucy for this style of heel.

I am a fan of short row heels, but the wrapped style featured in Priscilla Gibson-Roberts' Dream Socks (another PDF link to that pattern) vexed me because I felt the holes where I picked up wraps were too big (particularly on the purl side). I found the Sherman heel to be a terrific wrap-free alternative; the garter stitch short row heel is the spicier alternative to the Sherman - I recommend either one if you are curious.

Two socks behind the cutCollapse )

There are a few more detail shots here, including one of the picot cuff, which was my only significant pattern mod - I had wanted to do one for a long time, so I did, using these directions.

Further Details

Yarn: ONline Supersocke Tropic, color 926 (I liked it - slightly splitty, but the socks are wearing well)
Needles: Magic Loop, size 0
Cast on: 64 stitches, increased to 72 after the cuff was complete

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white_hart
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I'm making a Shapely Tank Top (from White Lies Designs), and am currently working my way through the bust shaping. I'm hoping that the short-row shaping will mean I end up with a garment that actually flatters, and doesn't just end up in the frog pond!

The instructions say to work one set of six short rows for a C cup, two for a D, and so on. Now, I'm actually a 32F, but if I work 24 short rows that's going to mean that by the end, half the stitches in the top will be wrapped, and I'm a bit worried that'll look weird; but if I do fewer, I might just end up with another ugly top that makes me look like a sack of potatoes. Has anyone with a similarly ample bosom successfully made this top? How many short rows did you do?

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phobiaofshae
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So maybe this is a dumb question, but I've looked around and haven't been able to find anything...

The concept of short rows is foreign to me. I don't understand what it means when it says stop at the specified point and turn your work. Does turning your work mean taking everything off and turning it around? I'm really clueless--I've been trying to figure it out to no avail.

Also, what yarns have you all been using for Calorimetry? I have no LYS so I was hoping to work out of my stash. I've got some Red Heart Bright & Lofty super bulky yarn and some sport weight and worsted weight. *I've also been reading stuff about how 120 stitches is wayyyy too big--so what would you all recommend? I'll probably knit this on #10 needles, because I'm a tight knitter (not sure if that makes a difference to the amount of stitches.)

Thanks to all of you in advance! =)

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tragicheroine
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Hat 1:
A cabled hat I made for my father for Christmas. It was based on this pattern, but I improvised the crown to match the cable pattern better. In the original, the top was all stockinette.
I used Lion Brand "Wool" in ebony, and size 8(i think)circular needles with the magic loop technique.
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Hat 2:
Another pattern from headhuggers.org. I saw this aviator cap all over craftster.net and fell in love with it. This hat was the first time I used short rows in a project other than socks. They seemed really complicated by the way the pattern was written, but I got the hang of it quickly. I also added icords and tassels to the bottom of each earflap. I used microspun and size 4 needles.
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And last!

Scarf:
When I look at the pattern and yarn in this project separately, they're both kind of "eh" to me. But when they come together......... magic. Really. I used the pattern Danica on Knitty and Paton's SWS in natural earth(I think). I just have a WIP shot now, but I'm really looking forward to getting more yarn because I already love it soooo much.
picturesCollapse )
Thanks for looking!

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bertha79
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I'm knitting the mini Christmas stocking ornaments from Last Minute Knitted GIfts, but I'm knitting them on 2 circs instead of DPNs. The pattern specifies a short-row heel, which I had never worked before, but I followed the instructions and I guess it worked since it does look like a heel. But after you complete the heel, the instructions for the foot read:

"Redistribute the 10 sts on the heel needle onto 2 needles with 5 sts each, then transfer the remaining 10 sts to one needle for the instep. Join A (the first yarn color - the heel is worked in a different color from the leg and foot) at the back of the heel, between the 2 needles with 5 sts each, and place marker for new beginning of round. Knit 9 rnds."

So, I am not really getting how I should distribute the heel stitches in this situation. I have the 10 instep stitches on 1 circ and the 10 heel stitches on the other. But I need to re-join the yarn in between each half of the heel stitches and I can't envision how to do that. 

Normally after knitting a heel on 2 circs, I would pick up the stitches for the gusset, but I guess you don't do that on short-row heels?? I looked in my copy of "Socks Soar on 2 circular needles" to see if there were any short-row heel patterns in there that showed how to do it, but all of them use a heel-flap except one, but it's toe-up so that doesn't help me with the distribution part. 

Can anyone explain to me how to do it, or point me to a pattern that is top down, short-row heel, on 2 circs that explains how I'm supposed to proceed? I tried googling for such a pattern but couldn't find exactly what I needed. Any help is appreciated!

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bubosquared
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I'm currently knitting this jacket--technically anyway, though I've shortened it a little, the sleeves will be stockinette with ribbed cuffs, and I've added a bit of waist shaping, and I'd like to add some bust darts, as it'll be fairly snug, and I'm fairy curvy. I understand the principle of short row bust darts for sweaters, but I'm slightly confused about how to implement them in jackets.

Now, the way I'm thinking is, I should put one "dart" on each front panel, which will create a nice bust-space, so to speak, but will also mean the "button edge" sides of the panels will have more stitches than the sides, correct? Will this be a problem, i.e. noticable when I wear the jacket open, or should I not worry about it? Also, can I block the short row areas like normal, or should I block them outwards to have the best result?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

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tiggrmish
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Hello,

I'm hoping someone can help me out with that. I'm trying to make the Cinderella version of the special socks pattern on Magknits. This is my first time making baby booties or even anything sock like and I've run into a snag on this step:

Turn Heel
Row 1: K7, place marker, k2, ssk, turn.
Row 2: P to 2 sts past marker, p2tog, turn.
Repeat these 2 rows until 6 sts rem, ending on a p row.


Did row 1 and 2 once no problems - trying to repeat the row like it says and now I don't have enough stiches to finish row 1. Am I only susposed to do what I can and turn or what? I tried to find a page with errors on Magknits but I can't.

Thanks!!

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windy_girl
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Hey all,
I'm working on the Rogue sweater by girl from auntie. I've gotten to the back shoulders, which involve short rows. I wrapped the stitches alright, I just followed the directions. But then it says to hide the wraps, and I'm not sure that I've done that (correctly) before, and if I did, it was a couple of years ago. Anyone have any directions?

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ace_and_sep
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I am starting my first toe-up sock, which will be my second pair of socks total, from a pattern in Charlene Schurch's Sensational Knitted Socks. This is a great book.

I do have two questions about the toe-up pattern I am attempting, which starts on page 40 of the book if any of you have it handy. I searched for errata for this book, and could not find any.

1) The top of the pattern states, "Select the number of sts to CO based on the gauge for your yarn and needles and the circumference of the intended feet." Then there's a chart titled Stitch Table, which also includes the line, "Number of Stitches to CO."

So I followed these directions and discovered with my gauge and foot circumference, I should CO 90 stitches.

However, the first line of the Short-Row Toe instructions read, "Using waste yarn and provisional CO, CO 15 (20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60) sts."

It doesn't explicitly state that I divide my initial number of stitches in half for this short-row toe, but that seems to be the implication. Am I correct?


2) Then she has a series of short rows, which read like this (or a purl variation): "Row 1 (RS) K43, yf, sl next stitch, yb, PM, sl wrapped st back to LH needle, turn."

When I follow these instructions, the marker seems to get knit into the piece. Also, she continues to instruct you to place a marker on every single row until 19 stitches remain unwrapped.

If I'm knitting the markers into the piece, am I doing it incorrectly? Assuming I'm not doing this incorrectly, will they come out later, and what is the purpose of a marker between every wrapped stitch at both ends of the piece?

Thank you!

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trillian42
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So I actually made this for a friend from the knitting circle at work, but it occurred to me that it might come in handy for anyone here who hasn't tried short rows, or who has had trouble with them. I made it in the yarn I used for my Shapely, way back when.

http://www.duke.edu/~ect3/knitting/short/shortrows.html

Enjoy.

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