I've been looking for the right yarn to make Tubey. It will be the first sweater I've ever made, and if it turns out well I'll splurge on the recommended Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran. For now, though, I wanted to keep my experiment under $50.
On a related note, I've been ordering samples of Webs line of Valley Yarns. So far I love the soft feel and extensive color range of Berkshire and Berkshire Bulky, though I haven't knitted a swatch to check for wear and pilling resistance.
So I ordered a ball of Valley Yarns Sugarloaf (52% Fine Merino Wool/48% Acrylic Microfiber, $4.49 for 81 yards) as a potential Tubey building block. When I pulled it out of the packing box, it was a soft and squishy dumpling of joy in my hand. However, after inspecting it, I'm worried about the loose chain construction of the yarn. It appears to be eight or ten 2-ply strands spun together, and even in the new dumpling, some of the strands appear to have been snagged and untwisted. I don't want to make a sweater that will snag on a hangnail and make an unfixable pull the very first time I wear it.
Has anyone ever knit with this type of yarn before? Will the act of knitting be enough to keep the chains together? If you look at the sample photo for color #23967, and examine the top strand, you'll see the deconstruction I mentioned.
I have the Cherry Blossom Shawl (from Interweave Knits Spring 2002 issued) on my list of things I want to knit. This would be my second lace project and first prject with lace weight yarn. But I have a problem (of course!). Normally, I'm find with subsitutions, but being this is such a big project and I have little experience with lace or shawls, I'd like some advice!
The yarn called for is Cascade Yarns Kid Seta (70% kid mohair, 30% silk) - 5 skeins [1150 yards total]. This yarn is impossible to find at any of my LYS's and the right color (#488 rose) is near impossible to even find online for less than $20 a skein (or something crazy like that). So, I'm looking for a subsitute that won't brake my bank, but would still look nice for a lace shawl.
Would any lace weight yarn work? Should I subsitute with something that has the same make up (kid mohair/silk blend)? And more importantly, could I use a 100% merino lace weight yarn? (Because I found one that I really love the color of, but I want to know if it would work or not.)
Question: Has anyone bought the Sweater Wizard program? Is it worth the money? That's a lot of cash for one program, and while I'm sure it pays for itself and is fantastic, I want to hear what others have thought about it before I ask for it as a birthday or Christmas present. And yes, I know it's cheap compared to photoshop etc. But knitters tend to have to be choosy about where the fun money goes. ;)
I'm trying to make up a list of things I'd like as gifts because every year the family asks and I draw a blank aside from "ummm... yarn? Books?" and then think of something later (but forget to tell them most times). I'm starting a list on my PDA to have with me, just in case.
i'm knitting up a little baby blanket with a basic basket weave stitch. i started out using size 10 needles with blue sky organic dyed cotton yarn (aran weight).
question is, it seems like the gauge is a little loose. would it be better for me to re-start the blanket with a smaller needle? or for those knitters on here who are also moms, would a little loosey-goosey be ok? ie i'm making a big deal outta nothing!
The only post in the memories concerning this had very few responses.
I plan to start my first felted bag soon, and was wondering whether it was better to use larger or smaller needles. I'm fairly new to knitting, and the only needle sizes I have are (in mm): 6, 5, and 3.25. I'm going to be using Cascade 220, if that helps. Anyway, just curious what size needles would be the best and whether I'm going to have to run out and buy new ones. :) Thanks in advance!
i was thinking of knitting clapotis using manos del uruguay, which varies in thickness. has anyone used a yarn similar to this (or this yarn), if so how did it work out, if not, how do you think it would work out?
thanks for your insight, and if you have any pictures of a finished clapotis made with a similar yarn, i would love to see it.
Help! I am a relatively new knitter. I actually started out making felted tote bags on circular needles. I am now working on my first ever flat project, a scarf. So, at the very beginning of the scarf, I knitted two rows very, very tightly. I did not notice I had done this until I was halfway through Now it is a glaringly obviousmistake. How do I fix this? Can I fix it, without unravelling all of my work and starting over? I am using 100% wool, if that helps.
What does it mean when a yarn simply describes itself as "Microfiber" with no elaboration? Natural fiber? Synthetic?
The yarn is called "Geisha", it's sort of furry and a nightmare to frog because it mats, which makes me think it might be feltable, but I can't tell. I made a hat out of it and it's not very warm or well fitting, so I'd like to felt it into a bag, if possible...but I wanted to find out what I could about the yarn first so I don't just wreck it.
I have a question about a bag that I'm making. It's sort of like the Chinese Charm Bag from Stitch n Bitch, but I had to use a different yarn. I saw that someone here used Noro Silk Garden for it and it looked great, so I wanted to try that yarn. However, when I was at the yarn store, it was just way too expensive, so for the sake of being a little cheaper, I bought Noro Kureyon instead because I thought it wouldn't make much of a different. It's 100% wool though. I had heard awhile ago that "breaking the yarn" means to just cut it, but if it's 100% wool (or maybe some other kinds of natural fibers too) you can actually just break it by pulling hard enough. I didn't think that was actually true! I had Peruvian highland wool and it was 100%, and that never broke for me. So when I was pulling a knot into my bag, I pulled it so hard that the yarn just broke. Fortunately it wasn't vital to the seaming of the bag, so it was okay, but I just got worried about the bag.
It's sort of big - maybe about 15 inches or so across, and 12 or something like that deep. I'm planning to attach bamboo handles which I think will be sturdy, and a lining. Even with the lining there though, I'm afraid that the bag will just start falling apart because it's big enough to put lots of stuff in.
Does anyone else think that it's just a bad idea to make a bag out of wool? And since it's already been made, is there anything that I can do with the lining to perhaps strengthen the bag? Basically, do you guys have any tips for sewing the lining on? I've never done that before.
I am needing some guidance. I have 2 skeins of Lana Grossa Fumo that I want to use make a baby hat and booties. The pattern that is my "go to" is the Fiber Trends Baby Basics. It calls for DK weight at 22 sts to 4" on US5 needles and the Fume is a heavy worsted at 17 sts to 4" on US5.5 to 6 needles. My question - Can I just make the pattern and be off on the guage? There is a pattern for Newborn and 6 month. I figure if I make the 6 month size I should end up between and Newborn and 6 month. Does that make any sense and is my logic valid? I could change the needle size but I really love the yarn. I am taking codine cough medicine - so I understand if you all are laughing right now.
Has anyone used "Angora Extra" before? I managed to aquire two balls, and am trying to think of a project to use them in. They are two different shades of blue, but they could look good together. It's 70% angora/25% wool/5% nylon, and 124 yards of each. Looking forward to suggestions! Thanks. :o)
I have a couple skeins of solid light blue 100% cashmere (yay for sales!) It's very lovely and I'm looking for a simple, yet pretty stitch pattern to make a scarf. It's a worsted weight and I probably have about 250 yards. Any suggestions?
I'm knitting my first pair of gloves and it's going fairly well but I'm having two problems:
1) When you finsh a finger you're supposed to cut the yarn and thread it through the remaining stitches. No problem. BUT then to start the next finger, I have to pick up stitches off of scrap yarn and knit them. How do I reattach the yarn again? I've been inserting the needle into the first as if to knit then looping the ball yarn on the needle and pulling it through but I'm worried that it's not secure enough.
2) After I have picked up stitches I have to cast on 2 stitches. First I used cable cast on then I tried knitting on but both methods leave me with super tight stitches, a holey mess AND an extra stitch!
im knitting a sock and to prevent laddering im knitting an extra stitch on the old needle before knitting on the new one. but its odd because i see lines and I dont know if its because of the extra stitches or the yarn. Im using cascade fixation.
I like making block afghans since even though your afghan is a WIP you still feel like you have an FO when you finish a block. :)
Here is a picture of my first finished block the ( Collapse ).
I learned a lot while making this block. Mainly how to cable without a cable needle and finishing techniques. Also, for those out there who feel intimidated about learning cabling, the only cables I had done before this was to make an ( Collapse ). So my advice is to just jump in and try them if you want to learn. Sure I made plenty of mistakes at first. (Hell I had to frog this block four times) but if you stick with it you can learn any technique you put your mind to.
Found this pattern for a scarf (see link below)..but when I look to get the yarn (TrendSetter Bloom) the yarn is discontinued so it's impossible. I've checked ebay..none there..and it seems that trendsetter hasn't had the yarn for a long time. Kind of weird since this article ran in November of 2005.
Has anyone knit with bloom in the past? ...do you have any suggestions to a good yarn to substitute with? it looks like a thick thin sort of yarn..but I can't find it on YarnDex.....soo....I don't know where to look.
Math is not hard. But I am rusty at it, and so don't mind asking for someone to red-pen me to make sure I'm not being a drooling imbecile somewhere.
I picked up a pretty hefty wheel of off-white pencil roving while I was up at a wool mill over the weekend. I've got a couple random skeins of Manos. So, I says to myself. We'll do a little pillow; Two felted stockinette panels of off-white shot through with color, bound together by a contrast blanket stitch of one of the colors used. Basic enough.
Easy enough to prep for; Jo-Ann's had a sale on the pillowforms, so I grabbed a 14 x 14. I did up a gauge swatch on size 11(US) needles which gave me 3.5 inches out of ten stitches, or roughly 2.5 per inch. I seem to find that the average piece of knit shrinks about a third of its size during felting. So, basic math tells me I need to cast on for approximately something more like 18x18 up to 19x19 if I'm feeling frisky. Crunching up the numbers and going for the higher totals (Round up to 3st per inch to 18 stitches) tells me 57 stitches to cast on. Sounds about right to me, and monitoring the felting when done will let me fiddle with it properly.
So, 1, as basic and dumb as that math looks, does it look right? And 2, bulky weight usually gauges up on 9 to 10 needles, think an 11 will be big enough for felting roving/Manos? It's going to be loose knit as I have to be fairly gentle on the roving anyway.
EDIT: Have gone up to size 13 needles after some serious gauge consideration, and have jiggled with new math. Am now knitting for roughly 20x22ish in order to account for shrinking variances and am considering doing the felting by hand for better control. Thanks for the input!