April 20th, 2006

Rowan summer tweed- tension and patterns

How many of you have worked with Rowan summer tweed before? I've tried making a swatch twice now and I'm having some trouble. Using 5mm needles, 16 stitches gets 10 cm perfectly across, but the 23 rows gets at least 11 or 12. The second time did my swatch I knit what I felt was quite tightly and I still couldn't get the length down.

Also- I don't know about you all, but while I like Rowan yarns, I usually do not find the patterns in the rowan books at all attractive. Well, I just bought "The Summer Tweed Collection" and it was a huge surprise for me, the patterns were great and I would happily make and wear most of them. Just a heads up.
flower, rome

Measuring for Big Girl Knits question

Hi all,

I got my copy of Big Girl Knits yesterday (so excited!), but I have a question about measuring. This may be a matter of preference, so I thought I'd see what other people think.

For your waist measurement (particularly for sweaters), do you go with the smallest part of your waist? Or do you go with another point between bust and waist that may be larger than your actual waist? I ask because my actual waist is a good bit smaller than the lumpy bit above it, and it seems like you'd want to make sure the bottom part of the sweater fit that part properly. And since I'm also in the butt-sticks-out category, I'm going to mostly be knitting things that stop right below the waist, rather than going over my big butt. :)
souls heart

Interchangeable needle sets...

Hey all, I'm a brand new knitter and this is my first time posting in here. Right now I'm just working on a scarf to get some practice, but after that I plan on making one of those cute knit hats with ears on it, which will be my first adventure into knitting in the round.

My question is this... At my local craft store, they have a set of interchangeable needles and cords, for making all sizes of circular needles. The set is something like $70, but the store I see it at has 40% off coupons in the paper every week, which would make it pretty reasonable, considering how many combos of needles and cord length you get.

Has anyone got one of these sets? Do you like it? Any problems with it?

The main reason why I'm considering it is that I know I'll have to monkey around with my gauge when I do a hat, and that would be easier to do with all the needle sizes at my fingertips, rather than having to run out to the store for larger/smaller needles.

Any input?

Tension Info

I have been knitting for about 18 months now, and gauge never ceases to surprise me.

I am currently knitting White Lies Designs Shapely Tank out of ArtYarns Fable on US7s. My tension was 5.125 sts/1" and 7 rows/1". The pattern called for 5 st/1" so I merrily cast on, thinking 1/8 of a st wouldn't make much of a difference but I WAS WRONG!

I am knitting the 48" size, and Joan M-M instructs me to CO 120 sts and knit six rows of garter st. I have just completed my short rows and I held up my knitting and looked at it. "Boy, this looks bigger than 24"," I mused. For kicks, I got out my measuring tape and held it against the CO edge. The front of my tank has grown from 24" to 27"! Now how did that happen, you ask? Well, let's do some Maths:

.125 x 120st = 15 sts

15st / 5 sts to the 1" = 3 EXTRA inches!!! GAAAHH!
  • Current Mood
    irritated irritated
Pixie Purls

Changing a pattern...

Okay guys, I look forward to your help. You guys have never let me know!

I have a rowan pattern, it's a tank top. It's worked on straights, flat.
It's 19.5 inches tall for the smallest size, I want it to be 21.5 for me. I'm not sure where to increase the height because it immediatly starts decreasing for the hip. I'm not sure if I could spread out those increases, or just knit an extra inch at the bottom of straight hight.

I hate swatches because the difference is soo unclear. But I know I must swatch!

Size 4 needles STST = 5.5 st per inch
Size 5 needle STST = 5 st per inch

Size 4 needles RIB = (if I "start" with 2 purls, I get 6 st, if I "start" with 2 knits I get 5 st)

Size 5 needle RIB = (if I "start" with 2 purls, I get 6 st, if I "start" with 2 knits I get 5 st)

So maybe I'm NUTS but the gauge is the same in the ribbing, and the whole pattern is in the ribbing. Maybe I am flattening one out to much, or something... the directions say the gauge is on a flattned rib. So I just pinned it out so it was pretty looking.

I measures over and over and over, and it's the dang same for both swatches in the ribbing. It's driving me batty, plus the inconsistancy is driving me batty.

The pattern calls for 5.75 stitches per inch, and the smallest size is 15.5 inches wide (31). That would fit me fine, 32 inches would be okay too, but I don't think I would want to go any smaller or much bigger, even if it is in ribbing.

I am clueless as to what to do. Should I try ANOTHER needle size smaller, size 3?? it reccomends US 5-6 needles, I would hate to go down so many sizes. I wouldn't want it too dense. I think it looks very nice on the size 4's. The size 5 swatch does appear to be a bit wider. Not much, but a bit.

Maybe I'm just mental or something. Either way, the swatch on the bigger needles is bigger, but maybe only because of the stockinette half. I did that just for future reference.

Here are my swatches: http://www.flickr.com/photos/pixiepurls/131907328/
  • Current Mood
    intimidated intimidated
xmas 2011

(no subject)

Hi all. I promise that this will be my last question this week, but I need to do something for a friend of mine and I can't think of what.

My best friend's 1 month old just got some bad test results back and my friend is devestated. I want to knit something for her little one so she can have me there with her. (she's several states away from me right now)

I am still new to knitting, but I feel like I have to do something.

Thank you.

Teaching LYS Classes and compensation.

For those of you teaching classes at your LYS....I would love for you to share with me how they compensate you. Do you get paid by the hour...or do you get a percentage of the total?? My mom is looking to hire people to teach classes at her store (we can't continue to teach ALL the classes on our own), but we aren't sure what to pay people. Your help would be greatly appreciated!!

Felting with Lamb's Pride: Bulky or Worsted?

For my first felted project, I'm plotting to make a messenger bag type item blending ideas from a couple of different patterns (knitty's satchel, french market and the Men Knit felted tubular knit bag.

I'm thinking of ordering a few 1lb cones of lamb's pride in either worsted or bulky for this, and potentially future projects (yes, the stash, it will grow.......precioussssss).

I'd like my bag to be sturdy, but not absurdly thick. I was thinking of using bulky weight so as to speed up the process of doing the actual knitting. Is there anything I should know about felting that would make a worsted weight a better choice? Should the knitting for felted objects be knit at a particularly looser or tighter gauge - does this affect the final felted outcome?

Please impart your knitting know how!

PS Coming soon - FO! Tubey! Only a couple of inches to go!

Question about pattern: KATIA FANNY CARDIGAN

I'm trying to make this cardigan from a free pattern on www.elann.com using Elsebeth Lavold's Silky Wool:


And I am a little confused about one part of the chart. I am making the back for a size small and currently using chart A starting at point A on the chart. In the second right side row, there is a "o" symbol, which according to the key means "chain 1". I am not exactly sure what this means. I notice in the notes at the beginning it does make mention of using a crochet hook (Crochet Chain – Make a slip knot and place this on hook. *Wrap yarn over top edge of hook (YO hook), turn hook upside down to hold this loop on hook while you pull hook through loop that is alaready on the hook, *. Rep from * to * for requiqred number of stitches. (Do not count loop that is on the hook as a stitch.)). But I am not clear on how this might fit into a stitch in the middle of my work. Looking ahead in the pattern, I can see that I will be dropping a stitch down to the first row at that spot, so I can only assume that whatever I do on this row will cause that dropped stitch to STOP at that point and not drop all the way down through the ribbing at the bottom. I'm just not sure what that special something I need to do IS.

Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.
Happy kitty

Blue Heron Yarns - worth the price?

Has anyone here worked with any of the Blue Heron yarns? An old acquaintance of mine has recently gotten in touch with me because he acquired some, heard that I knit, and wanted to know if I wanted to buy any...I'd be getting it for what he paid, but he pretty much paid retail, which is around $30/skein. I want to help him out, but this is pretty expensive for me, so I am just wondering if those who have worked with it think it's worth the price? From what I can see online, the stuff looks pretty, but I've never knit with rayon before and I'm not finding a lot of reviews or information on it, nor have I ever seen it in stores. Is this a fairly new company?

The stuff he has is the Silk Rayon, Cotton Rayon, Beaded Cotton Rayon, and Confetti...

yarn recommendations

Okay, I asked this in diy_fluff but I wanted to get some of you guy's opinions.

I am going to be knitting a friend of mine some diaper soakers for her baby girl. I need to use 100% wool. Right now I have just been using fisherman's wool (kool aid dyed)and Paton's Classic Merino wool.

I was going to get some stuff from knitpicks but I have been told that it is especially dry stuff. We have to lanolize the soakers and I guess knit picks takes a lot of the lanolin out.

What types of cheaper, but nice wool is there out there? I would LOVE to make a pair of longies out of noro kureyon, but right now its a bit expesive and the god of yarn hasn't listened to my pleas for a nice free shipment of ohh about 300 skiens for free, haha.

And here are two FO's of said soakers. I dyed these myself!

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