April 23rd, 2006

(no subject)

Hi, I've looked at this community for a while and finally joined, I'm going to be taking some pictures of my FO's but for now I have a quick question.
I've googled a bit and checked the memories, but I have not had much luck. I've tried DPN's but straights are just so much easier for me, so does anyone have a two needle sock pattern they could recommend? I would really appreciate it, thanks!

FO: pi shawl, and another 'omg blocking rocks!'

Yarn: something woolly, unlabeled yarn that was given to me after a relative died. Roughly dk/worsted-ish.
Needles: size 10 1/2
Pattern: basic EZ Pi shawl foundation, two inner motifs cobbled together from my stitch dictionaries. Outer motif is EZ's design.

Notes: I wanted something heavier as we are still quite chilly in my area, but I wildly miscalculated the amount of yarn I needed. Unfortunately I ran out before I was ready, and I ended up having to use a small ball of gray to bind off. Luckily it makes a nice accent. Unblocked it was only 3 feet in diameter, after blocking it stretched to a little over 4, but that still a bit short for what I wanted.

I have to say that blocking is an amazing thing; the shawl looked like a piece of wooly poo before I blocked it, but now it's gorgeous! (but I do admit, pushing in 100 T-pins can be a bit of a PITA, my thumb is quite sore now.)

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  • Current Mood
    cheerful cheerful

short-row shapping in rib stitch

I just finished Knitty's Tubey and it is currently drying and waiting for the weaving in of ends. I tried it on before blocking, and while the length is great in back, the front is too short, and I realize now that additional bust shaping should have been a consideration.

So for my own reference for future projects, it seems (based on logic and Google) if I were to do short-rows like normal (wrap and turn) as long as I maintained the pattern of the rib stitch, I should be able to get effect of short-rows without it looking awkward. Has anyone tried this in a ribbed sweater? It seems like it would work, but I have had a tough time finding information about it.


FO: Curvilinear

This is a sleeveless sweater I designed. It was knit completly in the round and was pretty quick, I used Encore Chunky which is bulky weight so it took about 8 hours to make.

I'd like to post the pattern later but am having a bit of trouble with the armhole shaping in other sizes... the one I knit is 40" which is a size large. I'd like to make it into plus sizes as well and have a request. If anyone is a 2X or 3X and can point me to a pattern in a bulky gauge (12 sts to 4 inches) with armhole shaping that really worked well for them please let me know.

This is the first sweater I designed and didn't know how difficult it would be. I figured I could just knit a nice big round tube, do some increases around the collar and that would be it. Little did I know there is more to it then that! There is some shaping on the sides which is really flattering, esp. if you are curvy.

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Reversing cables

So I'm making Knitty's Trellis, and I'd like to have the cables be mirror images on each side. Well, I know how to reverse the big cables, but part of the instructions is to "knit second stitch on cable needle tbl, then knit the two stitches together tbl." Ok, fine, I can do that. But how do I reverse that to make a mirror image counterpart on the opposite side?
Happy kitty

Pictures of how to pick up gusset stitches on magic loop??

ETA: I think I've got it now, THANKS!

I am in need of some emergency sock help! I have to get these sockapaloooza socks done by 5/1 and I'm having such a hard time with it!

I've just turned the heel on my first sock, but I can't figure out how to pick up the stitches for the gusset doing magic loop! Does anyone know of a website that shows how to do it? I've been googling forever and can't find anything with pictures or directions that I understand. I have the magic loop booklet which has a sock pattern in it, but that pattern is written for worsted weight yarn and I am using sock weight, so the numbers don't add up on how to do it for me and I can't figure it out!

The sock pattern I am using calls for 22 stitches to be left on the needle after turning the heel, which I've got. Then the rest of the pattern reads:

-With knit side facing, the yarn is dangling on the left side of the heel flap. Call the needle holding the flap stitches needle "0"
-Pick up stitches: With another needle, knit up 15 stitches along the left side of the heel flap; (you will be picking up one stitch for every slipped stitch on the edge. Call the needle holding these stitches needle 2.
-With another needle pick up 15 stitches along the other side of the heel flap. Call this needle 3.
-Now, still using the 4th needle, knit 11 stitches off needle "0" (you have reached the center of the heel.)
-Now slide the 11 stitches still on needle "0" to needle "1"

Then it goes on to list the decrease instructions, but I don't know how to translate these previous instructions for magic loop. I only have 2 needles! And the first line, where it says the yarn is dangling on the left side of the heel flap? nuh uh, it's on the right side!

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too heavy for an evening wrap?

hey, thanks for all the advice about evening wraps you gave me a few weeks ago.  I was going to do knitty's tendrils when i found an old pattern i had stowed away on my bookmarks that i had really wanted to try.  I found a nice lightweight silver gray yarn.  I plan on repeating the pattern another few times so it comes out as six collumns instead of four, and slipping a little bead on at every K2tog. 

my questions are even though the gauge is really thin (i think it's somewhere around 7 or 8 sts to the inch?), will the pattern itself look ridiculous?  also, i haven't been able to find anything on grafting online, and no one around em seems to know how either.  i assume that one would knit two equal length pieces of the garment and somehow connect in the middle...is this done by loosely binding off and sewing together, or is there a different way to do this so there will be no big, chunky seam in the middle?

happy knitting everyone!
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    hey you - pink floyd

(no subject)

Super-quick question here, and I'm sorry to bother anyone with it.

As far as socks are concerned: do you, personally, prefer to do them toe-up or cuff down? Which do you find easier (which is a different question from preference)? And finally, what yarns do you prefer to use when making socks?

Thanks a ton for any and all replies :)
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    weird weird

Toy Goat Pattern Request

Hey All,
I have a rather odd pattern request (well it seems odd to me). Im looking for a pattern on how to make a Toy Goat. I've looked in several locations but haven't been able to find any yet. . . . Any help is much appreciated!

(edited for bad spelling)

Cashsoft DK-patterns?

As a treat.. I want to knit something for myself (novel idea, eh?) using Rowan's Cashsoft DK yarn (http://www.yarnmarket.com/yarn/RYC_Yarn-Cashsoft_DK_Yarn-1818.html?CFID=5037271&CFTOKEN=66806455) but I'm having a heck of a time finding adult patterns using DK weight yarn. I have read through about 30 pages on google.. and haven't found much.

So I've come to beg the knowledge of the best knitters in the world.. what are your favorite patterns using DK yarn?

help decreasing in lace pattern

I am doing a top with a lace pattern which is 6+1 stitches. I have to do decreases for the body and I am very confused as how to do the decreases at the edges without off setting the pattern repeats. It is a lacey lattice:

this is the row where I have to incorporate decreases at each end and I am not sure how:

row7= k2tog, yo, k3, (yo, sl 1, k2 tog, psso, yo, k3) to last 2 sts yo, sl 1, k1, psso.

how can I decrease the edge when I start with k2tog, then a yo, do I just omit that first yo? Are there options here or is there a right way and a wrong way. And would I just k2 tog when I get to the last two stitches?

I think this might be ok but then I don't know how to start the following row, after the ws row (all ws rows are purl)

after the decrease the stitch pattern says,

row1= k1, * yo, p1, p3tog, p1, yo, k1, repeat from * ( I would have 2 less sts, do I omit the yo or do a knit instead at each end? I am so confused.

Thanks in advance, this seems like a difficult question to me...I hope I explained it well enough to solve my problem.
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    confused confused

ISO solid DK weight yarn with sparkles

Does anyone know of a DK yarn that has just a teensy bit of silver sparkle to it? I need a solid (well, except for the sparkley bit) lavender color. Last night I dreamed of this beautiful sweater, and I just have to make it. It's so funny how I couldn't imagine designing a sweater, and have never had any inspiration when awake, but now I have this extremely vivid picture in my head from a dream! I've googled some, but I haven't found anything like this in solid colors. I need a DK weight because it was argyle, and the only argyle chart I know of is Eunny's Deep V Vest, which calls for a DK weight, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong). Thanks!