May 15th, 2006

teal dress

Lagoon Socks FO

I just finished these socks Friday. They were knitted with some of my early kool-aid dyed yarn, and I wasn't very happy with the color. I started knitting with it one day because it was the only yarn I had around, and I put it down for a while because I didn't like the color... but I loved the pattern so much I went ahead and finished them. After they were done, I over-dyed them with the acid dyes I have now, and not only did it completely fix the color, it got rid of the sticky, fruity smell. The acid dyes actually make the yarn smell better!

Yarn - Savvyknits Sock Yarn (100% merino wool)
Pattern - Oblique Openwork from Sensational Knitted Socks (slightly modified)
This pattern was intended to be toe-up, but I didn't feel like it, so I made them the other way around. I also wanted the lace pattern to be more spread out on the ankle and foot, so I worked decreases into the cuff, taking the 3-st. purl rib gradually down to a 1-st. purl rib, without distorting the lace panels. I'm quite happy with how they turned out.

I love these socks because they fit perfectly thanks to my pattern mods, and they are very comfy. They also symbolize how far I've come in my dyeing abilities. I just dyed up a beautiful batch of superwash merino that is like HEAVEN to knit with. I had a little bit left on the end of a cone, so I dyed it up to make baby stuff for all my pregnant friends. I couldn't wait to knit with my new stock of yarn, and nothing is more instant-gratification than an infant sock!

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Super Quick Baby Blankets

So, my cousin is pregnant again. Woot!

I want to knit the baby something. I don't want to knit it something to wear, as I never seem to finish those without some sort of distaster coming and hitting me. I'd rather make a toy (that I have picked out) and a baby blanket, since the wee one is due in December.

The last time I knit a baby blanket, it took me forever and ended up not being used. So this time, I'd rather knit up something FAST, so that when I never see it again I don't feel as bad.

Knottie summer

Decreases in the round

I want to convert my lace tank top pattern so that I can knit it in the round, but I'm not sure how to handle one of the stitches.

On one of the purl side rows in the lace pattern, I purl 2 together; if I knit the tank in the round, I'll never be working from the purl side, so what kind of decrease do I work from the knit side that'll look the same? Is it as easy as just doing k2tog?

Does anyone know of any online resources for this kind of thing? All I found were tutorials matching up left and right leaning decreases, not back and front.


Beaded knitting and Cascade 220

Has anyone every done beaded knitting with Cascade 220? I recently acquired 4 skeins thanks to a great friend, and I think it will work well to make Knitty's tendrils. I am not sure what size beads I should use though, and I don't have any laying around to check and see. The pattern calls for size 4/0 beads, but I've found some size 5/0 that I'd like to use. I don't want to order all the beads I'll need to find they won't fit, and I don't want to order one sample, test them, and then have to pay shipping for the rest of the beads. If anybody knows anything, that'd be great. Also, does anybody know if Joann's sells beads in specific sizes like that? I could always grab a small pack there if they have them and if nobody here knows what size I should use with the Cascade 220.
  • Current Music
    Miss Ottis Regrets - Bette Midler

Need help interpreting a pattern

I've had this pattern on the needles for awhile now but because of a tonsilectomy and an aednoidectomy, I've got *alot* of time to knit. It's a pattern called a Chinese Tapestry Slip Stitch Hat and I thought I had it down, but now the more I read the pattern, the more I get confused.

Pattern available:

The instructions say:
With a basic two-color slip stitch as used in this pattern, you must knit (or purl as it may be) around each round twice to complete one finished round.

For example, one of the rounds is:
RND 1a: (Color A) *SL2, K3, SL1* REP to end of round and pick up Color B
RND 1b: (Color B) *K2, SL3, K1* REP to end of round and pick up Color A

So does this mean I have to do Round 1A, Round 1A, Round 1B, Round 1B to complete a round? Or does 1A and 1B = one full round?

Then there's the second part of the pattern where it states,
For Size Large, continue increasing here:
I'm knitting a size Large but I don't really feel like I'm increasing. I haven't done an increase stitch yet.

I don't know if I'm just overanalyzing but I feel like the 23 rounds (with two rows per round equaling roughly a 46 row hat) will be deep enough for a hat.

Thanks for any interpretation help. Maybe it's just the percosets that are affecting me.

Blocking Lace to body size

I'm reaching the end of my Butterfly odessey... or at least the end of knitting the main body. Next up is blocking. Now I've never blocked any lace to be worn against the body like this... shawls, sure, but they block pretty easy.

Question 1: Ease. I want it to be fairly slim fitting. Do I block to my measurments? A bit smaller than my measurements?

Question 2: Boobs. I have a 29" waist and a 39" chest. I've adjusted the pattern for additional ease, but should I block the chest area around some sort of faked up "boob form"? And if so, how do I ensure that it's not overly baggy in the chest?

Question 3: This is kinda hypothetical, but say I get pregnant at some point in the next year or so... can I re-block the dress to account for an early preg tummy? Or is it a matter of when it's blocked, it's blocked and never shall the almighty KSH assume any other shape.

More help...

I need a little more help with the arm warmers I'm working on. The pattern is at You do need to be registered to view the actual pattern but basically the part I'm having problems with is this [in bold]:

1st row: P1. *K3. P2. Rep from * to last 4 sts. K3. P1.
2nd row: K1. *P3. K2. Rep from * to last 4 sts. P3. K1.
Rep last 2 rows until work from beg measures 2½ ins [6 cm].
Cont in stocking st (Knit on RS and purl on WS) until work from beg measures 9 ins [23 cm], ending with RS facing for next row.

Unfortunately, as you can see, the pattern doesn't really say which is RS and WS. I've noticed that in most patterns RS is usually the 2nd row of the pattern. Does this hold true for everything?
  • Current Mood
    aggravated aggravated

NYC visit!

NYC Knittas!

I have spontaneously scheduled a trip to NYC tomorrow until Saturday to stay with one of my best pals. She's working on Broadway on Wednesday night and I found out that's when the infamous Booze and Yarn is happening!

As I am from teeny Delaware and am nervous with the subway system (the DC Metro makes perfect sense to me.. the NY subway? none!), I was wondering if anyone has any advice for getting there, and/or if there's anyone who comes from the Times Square area who wants to ride over with a nervous suburbia girl like me.

And any information you have on B&Y (or other Stitch events, if there's a closer/better one), I'd love it! I wish I had time to check out yarn stores on this trip; technically our days are open, so if there's one I absolutely have to see, pass it along.

Thanks lovelies!

Edit: Oh no! I just heard from Corinna and it's happening Thursday, there's some sort of special event at Niagara Bar this week. Of course, my luck. Anything stitch-related that goes on for Wednesdays? How about those yarn shops? Any near Times Square?

Edit 2: Looks like I'm going to KnitNY, since it's open late-ish and Wednesday is "new customer day" (I'll take 10% off anyday). I'm gonna take the N to Union Square to the L to 3rd, or I might walk from U. Square. I think I'm starting to figure out some of this transit system (DC is SOOOO much more simple!). Thanks for all of the help and advice, everybody!