May 17th, 2006

marmotte, Marmotte_icon

Decreasing question

Can someone please tell me how I can decrease 3 stitches at the beginning and end of a row? I'm knitting the back of a cardigan and am about to do the armhole decreases.

Previously I've always cast off the beginning 3 stitches of the next 2 rows, but I don't like the staggered effect, and thought there has to be a better way than this!
I'm thinking it involves ssk but k how many??
Since I am now bedbound with my stupid disability and have no one else to turn to, I could use some input from the knitting cognescenti!

Many thanks in advance.
i think i missed the hole

binding off then casting on in the round?

Hi,

I'm attempting to make a bag somewhat similiar to theLopi Tote, only I'm not felting it and thus using much smaller needles. I have 54 stitches, so to make the handles, I'll need to k9, bo 9, k18, bo9, k9. Maybe my method of casting on is different, but I'm really confused as to how you cast on after binding off stitches for the handles. Any advice?

- Anna

double knit mittens?

Anyone have experience double knitting mittens?

I'm really happy because I finally successfully making a pair of mittens I had to frog the first one four times, but I got the second one right on the first try!. (Cascade 220 heather stood up very well to repeat frogging.) They fit! They are both the same size, even the thumbs! Yay me. :)

Now I'd like to make a pair of double knit mittens for my bro in PA. He's always complaining about having cold hands. I'm going to knit up a pair with a simple colorwork design, and (I think) I understand how to do the double knitting.

My questions:

I knit up the first pair with Cascade 220 on size 3 needles. Can I do double knitting with worsted weight on this same size or should I use a larger needle? Or would a double layer of worsted weight make the fabric too stiff or so dense that my bro can't move his fingers? Also, is the guage about the same with DK knitting as it is with "regular" knitting?

Thanks for all your help!

Oh, and since you asked so nicely, here's a pic of my first successful mitten.

is this a waste?

I recently purchased 330 yards of alpaca from my LYS for 15 bucks. I am not sure what to do with it, I was thinking I could make a felted bag but I am not sure if I should felt the alpaca or buy cheaper wool. What do you guys think?
real picture

Newbie question re: casting on

Hello, I'm new to this community, and to knitting. I've crocheted since I was a child, but have never learned to knit (although I've always wanted to). They were selling birchwood needles in the school store at my son's Waldorf school, so I picked up a pair and decided to try to teach myself.

Anyway, on to my question:
I've checked the memories, links, and Google. It seems the more I read, the more confused I am. I'm working a basic dishcloth pattern with cotton yarn (simple, and I've been wanting to try this sort of dishcloth anyway); I started learning to cast on by this page: http://www.learntoknit.com/instructions_kn.php3

Later, I found this page, which shows several methods/types of casting on:
http://knittinghelp.com/knitting/basic_techniques/index.php
I was specifically intrigued by the double cast on (i.e., it looked easier/faster to do than the previous method I tried). In the video the lady said you're doing a row of knitting as you cast on with this method. So I'm assuming I could use this method for any pattern that does a single row of knitting after the initial casting on? (Forgive me if my terminology is off; I'm still learning the lingo!)

I also was confused by all the different methods...I haven't looked at a ton of patterns, but the ones I've seen have just said "cast on X number of stitches". Which method are they talking about?
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Stewie

(no subject)

Anyone had any luck spit splicing Debbie Bliss cashmerino aran?  Seems like that would help keep my Tempting the smoothest, but I've not actually tried to do it with any yarns yet.  Does it hold up to washing?  hand washing is fine with me....just want to make sure I'm not going to finish a sweater and then have it fall apart on me :-)

Thanks!

-Beth
Wool-Cat

FO (ish!): Sock photos - one down, one to re-do ;)

I got myself some nice bright slightly elasticated sock yarn a while back, and finally got around to making the socks. I started off doing a 2x2 rib for the cuff, and then carried that on down the leg, to the ankle. Did the heel (not sure what sort it is!) and carried the rib along over the top of the foot, leaving the underside of the foot stocking stitch, and then stocking for the toe, kitchener-stitched on the toe, and then decided I much preferred the look of the stocking-stitch underside, and hated the rainbow when in 2x2 rib. It was just too messily bright in 2x2 rib.

So I cast on sock the second, and did it stockingstitch instead of rib (it was my first go at a ribbed sock, in hindsight ribbed may work better with a plain yarn!). I wasn't convinced that it would fit as well as the ribbed one had, so I was loathe to frog that one till I was sure about the stockingstitch one.

Voila - one is complete. It fits like a glove, but only because I dropped needle sizes. I cast on 60 stitches, worked the rib cuff with 2.5mm dpns, then switched to 2.25mm dpns for the rest of the sock. My previous (first) pair were done on 2.5mm dpns, and they are too big, so I hope the 2.25's will see them just right even after a wash or two. I used a fairly generic pattern, and the yarn is Regia stretch colour. It proclaims no wearing out of cuffs and welts. Well, I've no idea what a welt is, and I'm surprised a cuff would wear out?

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Really enjoyed knitting this sock, so have already picked up stitches in the ribbing on the other one, so I can finish ripping back the last few rows to get the cuff the same size, then will get straight in to the stockingstitch. I'm so excited about the fit of the first one, I want to finish the second so I can actually wear them! :-) Oh, and I don't care about the hole in the ankle. It's designed that way to allow for ventilation of said foot. Honest. (I decided the hole was fine, though I could have faffed with preventing it by picking up an extra stitch and then doing a sneaky decrease).
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knitting superstitions?

Does anyone have any superstitions about their knitting (besides the curse of the boyfriend sweater).

I have some lovely navy blue worsted weight wool that I recycled from a thrift store sweater. It wasn't a very attractive sweater but it is terrific yarn. It's so wonderful to work with and really wish I had more of this yarn. I've made two felted bags with this wool; both bags came out very nicely.

I have a large-ish ball left, about 100-150 grams and I was going to use it to make a short-ish scarf for a friend, but...

I have had absolutely no freaking luck knitting a scarf with this yarn. I have tried several different patterns and nothing works. I don't mean "oh, I don't really like this pattern" but dropping stitches or having stitches slipping off the needle or totally messing up the extremely simple pattern so the whole thing has to be frogged...

A friend of mine is always telling me to "listen to the Universe. It will tell you what you need to know if you will only listen." I'm starting to think that this yarn is telling me that it doesn't want to be a scarf but is perfectly happy as part of a felted bag.

This ever happen to anyone else? The yarn you have just won't be the project you want it to be for no understandable reason?
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ISO pattern: Argyle vest for a size 6-12 month infant

I want to make my daughter an argyle vest. Baby gap was selling them in the boys section( I almost bouht it for her. Can you imagine, a little argyle vest and a frilly shirt? too freaking cute) but I can't justify paying 25 bucks for it. So I want to knit one.

I need it to be light enough for summer here in florida.

Thanks alot.

(no subject)

okay. knitting a bikini top which contains no increses, but is supposed to get larger. arg.

it says "cast on 13 st, wokr in 4 rows st st, etc, etc, etc, etc" works though a pattern which says "K4, y fwd, k2tog, k2...."
so, doesn't the "k2tog" take care of the extra stitch that would have been made by the "y fwd"?

what am i missing?

If i replaced the "k2tog" with just a "k1" would that solve my problem?

why is this pattern so crazy?!