I have two skeins Moda Dea Dream in "Pecan" (which is a pale tan color) and three skeins Moda Dea Eden in "Fig Leaf". I'd really like to make a shawl of some sort, something very lacy and open using these yarns, possibly held together. I have a pair of size 35 needles sitting next to me.
Two things, though, are stopping me.
1 - The colors. The Boyfriend says the colors don't go together. Should I throw caution to the wind and use them together? I'm not afraid to wear something slightly unmatched, but I try to trust his opinion.
2 - Pattern. I didn't have much luck finding a shawl pattern using size 35 needles. It'd be pretty easy to make a triangular shawl, though I admit to being slightly nervous about making up my own pattern.
These yarns are both really fun and fuzzy, so I hate just letting them sit in the stash, but I already have scarves featuring each yarn. I'd love to make a lightweight shawl. It seems natural to combine these two desires with these yarns. But I'm just not sure which way to turn.
Oh, might knitters, your guidance would help my troubled mind. Thank you in advance.
My cousin emailed me last night and asked if I would have any idea how to knit a slouchy beanie (a picture example behind the cut). In exchange for knitting it, she is going to donate money toward a missionary/ humanitarian aid trip I am trying to raise money for for September (thus I can't used existing copyrighted patterns since I am technically being paid for the creation of this).
My question is this... I am thinking that if I start as for a regular hat and go about 4 inches or so and then gently increase for a bit to create the slouchy part, do you think that makes sense? I realize I am going to be kind of making it up as I go, but if I at least had some kind of plan for the general shape, that would be great.
I am trying to knit a beanie. This is the first time I have used circs and I'm having a problem. I casted on 110 stitches. When I joined both sides and started the second row I started having a lot of trouble dropping the stitch over. I don't know how to word it any better, but if anyone can help me, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!
( Collapse ) And so we're not all web talk, I got my new KnitPicks needles! I'm so excited--they were supposedly backordered, but they came in 4 days. These are my first interchangeables, and I'm pretty impressed so far. I only have one set of addi turbos, but these KnitPicks options compare favorably, IMO.
My only difficulty so far has been getting used to the pointy tips. I picked a project with bamboo (splitty) and ribbon yarn (splitty!!), which might not have been best for the first test. Will it get easier with practice, or are pointy tips/splitty yarns pretty much always a pain?
Yeah, I'm addicted to shawls and lace at the moment, so this is my next project.
What I'm not sure about is the bit where you change colours to another skein of the yarn. So you knit 19 rows, then change to your second skein and knit 2 rows with that, 2 with the original, repeating like that for a while, then do x more rows with just skein 2. Then you do the alternating 2 rows with skein 3.
How do you manage the yarn whilst you do this alternating? Do you just carry the unused colour down two rows and start knitting with it again? Or do you break the yarn, join in the new colour, do 2 rows, break it, join in the old colour, etc etc?
Any advice most welcome - I'm currently squeeing with delight over the yarn colours, having wound the first hank into a ball last night and seeing it properly for the first time (it's Koigu) and can't wait to get started properly on it all!
Oh, and I'd be interested to know how people got on with the yarn quantities - if you got gauge with the 4mm needles stated, were 5 balls enough (including doing the fringing/did you need a 6th for the fringe)?
I usually drop .5mm to get gauge, but I have 6 skeins, so I wondered if even if I used the stated ones and my gauge is a little bigger, whether I'd have enough to complete it (I'd like it bigger rather than smaller and yarn left over really).
So I had my first foray into lace about a month ago, with a simple fern lace scarf made with fingering weight yarn. I then fell in love with a skein of handspun laceweight at an LYS and decided to try it. The smallest needles I had were 5 and metal, so I bought a circular Clover bamboo size 3. However, there's no way I can knit this laceweight with those needles... the tips are too big. Is it something particular about Clover circs? Or is it that I needed a smaller size? I figure a metal needle might have more of a point but I think it would be way too slippery. Suggestions welcome.
Thanks for all your help with my sock questions, I have made a few pairs now and I wanted to show off my latest pair. I never post pictures because I don't have a way of getting the pictures from my camera onto my computer so I'm using my dad's computer now.
I'm also posting my very first Fair Isle project! It's still a WIP, but it's so much fun! It's the Peace Jacket from For the Love of Yarn, made with Classic Elite Provence, which is 100% Egyptian Cotton and I can't recommend it enough. Cotton is my favorite fiber to knit up and this is the best cotton I've ever used. ( Collapse )
I've just returned from vacation and the absolute best part of my trip was a stop in Truckee (yeah, Truckee) and a visit to Jimmy Beans Wool. It may be familir to web shoppers but the actual store itself (there's a 2nd store in Reno) was charming and full of wonderful yarns. All the Karabella yarns were 20% off - so soft and such pretty colors - but I managed to resist. Lots and lots of yarn I've never actually seen in person - so I was in tactile heaven! The saleswoman was very friendly and knowledgable - she broke out her knitting bag to show me the socks she was making with the same Lorna's Laces yarn I was buying - she asked if I needed a pattern - and engaged in a lively conversation with the other store customer about sock knitting. Then she signed me up for their email list and make me feel like I never wanted to leave the store. My son, who initially spotted the store, remarked on the way out "so, you're not the only one obsessed with knitting." My reply "these are my people."
So, if you have to be in Truckee, there is a silver lining and it's Jimmy Beans Wool.
Has anyone transitioned from English/throwing to Continental/picking? If so, what was your experience like? How long did it take you to become proficient at it? Have you stuck with it or gone back to English style?
I learned to knit as a "thrower", and a slow one at that, even though my stitches have always been very consistent and very even. So I've learned to knit continental style, and I think I've got the hang of it.
But...my stitches are wildly uneven, and very loose. Is this just a feature of continental style or will my stitches probably even up with practice? Right now I'm very tempted to go back to throwing because my stitches are neat, even if it's slow.
I have noticed a lot of questions lately regarding swatching. Do you need to do it? How to swatch properly? How to swatch on the round?
So- I thought maybe a quick guide would be a good thing.
When you read a pattern it gives you a good guide to swatching. I am working on the Eyelet Chemise for IK Summer 2006. The gauge given for the Euroflax in the pattern is 23 stitches in 33 rows= 4" in st st on size 3 needles.
I am subbing Allhemp3 sportweight for the Euroflax, with a gauge given of 28 st & 38 rows = 4 in on size 3's. Since I am a) subbing, and b) subbing a yarn that has a different gauge listed, I am swatching. Generally, I don't swatch. but since I am subbing and altering the pattern to be a bit longer, it is more important that I hit the listed gauge with this project.
For the swatch I cast on 40 stitches on size 3 needles. Why? To correctly measure my swatch, I need more stitches than the gauge suggests. Since this is a st st swatch, it will curl. Casting on more stitches means that I can have a garter border, and still have enough stitches to measure correctly.
So- I co 40 sts. Knit a few rows- I like 5- then begin the swatch. I leave a row of 5 garter sts at the beginning and end of each row to prevent curling and make measuring easier. For the st st center, I am to knit at least 5 inches, so i get a good measurement in a few places of my average st per inch. This also means that I have a few rows of leeway for measuring the row gauge.
Surprisingly, I hit gauge. I'm good to go.
For swatching in the round there are a few ways to go. The easiest is to co however many stitches on a circular or dpn, and knit the first row. When you get to the end, pull a length of yarn over, and start from the beginning, just as you would to knit in the round. Continue this, leaving a garter border- again, it prevents curling, until you can get a good measurement. Way is to knit a tube on dpns. As long as you can get a good 4 inch measurement, or are willing to do the math from one inch of a tube, you can get a good idea of you gauge in the round.
Gauge does change from flat to circular knitting, but that does not mean that your gauge will change from straight to circular needles if you are knitting flat. A good gauge swatch can really give you a good idea of how a finished product will behave when washed, showing how much shrinkage will occur, how the fiber felts, or blooms, or grows.
Having said that, I do find that the more i use a specific yarn or fiber, the better I am at knowing if I will hit gauge for a pattern with a specified needle. I don't always swatch, but for the big things, fitted things, I do.
I hope this helps. I had planned to include photos, but apprently my 6 year old camera is taking an extended break.