August 7th, 2006

Right-twisted travelling stitch

I am swatching the "Fishtrap" pattern of Elizabeth Zimmermann's January Aran from Knitter's Almanac but I am puzzled over her way of knitting a right-leaning travelling stitch:

"Knit two stitches together from the front, but don't take them off the lefthand needle. Now dig into the second stitch, knit it again, and slip both stitches off the lefthand needle together," (pg. 7, Knitter's Almanac, 2nd edition).

When I follow these instructions, I end up with a mangled mess instead of elegantly twisted stitches. Which is the second stich: the one closest to the needle tip, or the second one from the tip? Has anyone else had problems with this stitch? Am I insane?
Get Excited and Make Things

A finished Branching Out!

Welp, after two weekends of nearly non-stop knitting, I finished my Branching Out. It's a birthday gift for a friend, so I got a major head start....but I'm hoping to get Christmas knitting out of the way early as well...

Anyhoo, I used Elsebeth Lavold in rose, knitted on size 7 needles. The pattern calls for 8's but I found that I liked how it knitted up on 7's better.

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I'm really pleased how it came out...but before blocking...I hated it. I'm my own worst critic, however.
  • Current Mood

need advice: the pattern was wrong after all

could also be titled "o! the rage!"

I'm knitting the child's placket-neck pullover from Last Minute Knitted Gifts by Joelle Hoverson. It's knit in the round to the sleeves, then you knit the sleeves individually on dpns and join them onto the circular to continue in the round while doing raglan decreases.

Everything was fine until I got to the part where you join the sleeves to the body. The pattern sounded wonky, there were supposed to be four decreases per round at each stitch marker but the pattern had only told me to add 2 markers for example. I figured out where the markers should go but the instructions still had me making raglan decreases "inside" the sleeve (past the marker for the sleeve start) which just didn't sound right.

I still knitted 8 rounds before stopping. Sure enough, Ms. Hoverson has posted corrections, actually reposted the entire pattern. She is smiling at me from the back flap of her book right now, it used to be a friendly smile but now it looks menacing.

I think the pattern is ok until the sleeve join. So we're talking about 8 rounds. I have to unpick this stitch by stitch, right? Since there are decreases and stitch markers, would ripping out be a disaster?

This makes me unreasonably furious. I have to keep repeating, "you made it the whole way through a vogue knitting pattern before, YOU CAN HANDLE THIS."

Thanks in advance for any help and/or commiseration.

felted wallet

I'm considering knitting/felting a wallet.  Is this a bad idea?  The main thing I'm afraid of is the fabric being too thick to properly stay folded in the middle.  I figured that I would knit with a thinner wool yarn and paper clipping or clothespinning it shut while it dried to block it into place.  Any ideas or suggestions to how I could pull this off?

  • Current Music
    "To the Workers of the Rock River...," Sufjan Stevens

(no subject)

I've been asked to re-create a hat for a friend and there are some rows that have three and four colors in the same row. The original hat was machine knit and now I'm trying to figure out how to hand knit it. I've never designed a chart before and I've never done Fair Isle (or whatever 4-color knitting might be called) before.

I charted out a baby hat with four colors in a couple of the rows and it's done. My biggest problem was that my yarn got all tangled up. I had to stop about half way through each row to untangle everything. I stranded all the work in the back and it seems to be ok... it's all laying neatly and it's not too tight to stretch. I've tried to do the weaving technique, but you can see the "woven" bits through on the right side. So I'm ok with the stranding, it's the tangle that I'm impatient with.

I've tried to google for a technique that will eliminate the tangle problem, but I haven't had any luck. Do you have any pointers for me?

FO: Sideways Cabled Hat

Pattern: Hat from the "Red Hat, Scarf, and Bag" set from Better Homes & Gardens' Knitting Year-Round.

Yarn: Cascade 220, just less than 1 hank (including tassel), double-stranded. Ball bands long gone (yarn was left over from a friend's sweater), so I have no earthly idea what number the color is. Trust me, it's gorgeous.

Needles: Denise Interchangeables, size US10.

Time Span: It took about a week of very unfocused knitting. Maybe 8 or 9 knitting hours, overall. It needed about 4 days to dry after blocking, though.

Notes, Musings, Stuff From My Head: This is the first pattern I have ever followed to the letter (aside from subbing Cascade for the recommended Paton's Classic, but worsted 4-ply is worsted 4-ply, right?), and I'm mostly pleased with the results. I had to block the snot out of it, though--despite being spot-on with my gauge, it was far too tight for my liking. I blocked it using a piggy bank and plastic bags. :-)

It's knit sideways, similar to Knitty's Coronet, but the crown is accomplished with short-row shaping, rather than being picked up and knit. It results in a small point at the top, which I found utterly charming and screaming for a tassel. So I obliged.

All cabling was performed without a cable needle, which speeds things along considerably. For anyone thinking of knitting this pattern, I would warn against using a fragile yarn. Most of the cables are 7 stitches wide, and with the relatively dense gauge (16 sts/20 rows per 4" with doubled worsted wool), I really had to wrestle and yank to get the cables to lie down and behave without creating huge gaps.

As it is knit sideways, it is finished with a seam. I am not comfortable enough in my craptastic kitchener skills to seamlessly finish a knit/purl pattern, so I simply fake-grafted the back. It does not look seamless. I am not bothered by this. But for someone who would find that annoying, I would suggest using a provisional cast-on and properly grafting it closed.

Finally, I found that charting out each cable panel separately helped ENORMOUSLY in keeping track of things. The wide cable, the narrow cable, and the short-row crown all had different repeat lengths.

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Knitting Fonts

I did a quick community search for knitting fonts and didn't come across any references.  So, if this is old news, let me know & I'll delete this post.

This one is a knitting convertor.  You type in your written instructions and it converts it to chart format.  It's a bit limited in the symbols used but still a great timesaver.

This one is a downloadable font that you can use in Word or Excel.
Eeyore 1

FOs: Ballerina Doll & Boy Doll

I finished my grand-daughter's "Ballerina" doll and my grand-son's boy
doll, modified from Jean Greenhowe's "Footballer" both from her "Mascot
Dolls"! I never think my knitting
looks as good as the pictures in the book, but the kids love their
dolls. I had to add noses to the dolls because the 3 yr. old. pointedly
told me her ballerina didn't have a nose (as per the pattern), and the two
yr. old pointed to his and said, "Nose!" :o)

Pictures: (I hope I do this right this time)

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It only took me half a day to get this right. (I hope!)
  • Current Mood
    drained drained
celtic icon

(no subject)

Curse you, Knitpicks.

I was just looking at their site, inspired by the post about the KIP bags, and noticed a link to "other kits you may like" at the bottom -- and found this -- the "Mix and Mingle" kit, a combo pak of 100 grams of color-coordinated different varieties of yarns to just play around with. They throw in a pattern for a throw that incorporates all of them.

Dammit. (Hides credit card on self)

regular graph paper good for charting?

is there is a difference between the graph paper that I can buy at the store and the kind I should use when charting a pattern?  

I am working on Branching out and the chart is just to small for me and I like to be able to scratch stuff out as I go, so I want to reproduce it.

bee me - default

"I Do" yarn substitution

I'm a procrastinator by nature, but I'm trying not to be. My older sister is getting married on October 1st. I'm her maid of honor and I promised to knit her a lacy shrug to wear over her (strapless) dress. My original plan was to knit Knitty's I Do, but I'm having a hard time finding a substitute yarn that I like. The Tahki yarns suggested in the pattern are cotton, but I'm looking for something similar to the cashmere/silk/viscose that the original was made in (or maybe something with alpaca?).

My main issue is that I need to find yarn that is WHITE, not natural or cream in any way because her dress is pure white and she wants it to match. I also want something soft (I've considered using KnitPicks Palatte, but I worry about it not being soft enough against her skin). I actually went so far as to purchase a couple of skeins of Caron Simply Soft because it is relatively soft & pure white, but I think it's probably a terrible idea to knit lace in acrylic.

Any help or suggestions will be much appreciated.

Edited to add: This is the dress in question.

Mango Moon Shurg

Hello everyone.I just made a shrug based off of the Mango Moon Shrug. ( and I made it with a different type of yarn.I used Plymouth Encore.I love how it rolls at my hands but its rolling on my back.I cant have that! lol Can I do something to this so its flat or flater?
This is my first shrug,or anything like it that you wear.I need all the help I can get! If needed I can take a pic of it.(I dont have one yet all I have a WIP pics.It is done Im just behind in taking
Oh also I havent seamed it yet.
TY for any and all help!
  • Current Mood
    contemplative how do i fix a roll?

(no subject)

I have some 4 ply, worsted weight, 100% cotton yarn and I would like to knit baby booties with it.

My first choice was Knitty's Tulip Toes but the pattern specifically says not to use 100% cotton yarn.

I knit this pattern, and they are cute, I love the way they look, and it was an easy pattern. The problem? They aren't baby booties. They're huge. They look like they'd fit a 3 year old.

So, now my searching has been exhausted, and I'm frustrated. I've looked through this database of baby bootie patterns and couldn't find a pattern that was not either hideous or wouldn't work with my yarn.

I would love to hear your suggestions.

Finished VK Hooded Pullover!

Alright, alright - I'm a little crazy thrilled about this because DAMN it's been a long time since I've finished knitting anything, especially something of this size and difficulty - and it's so pretty and I love it and and...

The pattern is this hooded pullover from Vogue Knitting Summer '05, and it's my first big lace project.

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  • Current Music
    Animal Collective - Grass

Sweater! Dice Bag!

The sweater is "First String" from the spring issue of Knitter's, knit in the round, size 1X in Paton's Grace (100% mercerized cotton).  If I made this sweater again, I would shorten the sleeves, and consider continuing the stockinette background all the way to the bottom edge and the edges of the sleeves, instead of having bands of reverse stockinette that tend to break the textural line of the sweater without fixing curling problems.  I'm not certain whether I'll keep it for myself or send it to my mom for Christmas.  I've been working on it since my birthday in late May, so this has been a significant time investment -- and you never know whether the gift recipient will appreciate that fact!

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In other news, I bought my first game requiring twelve-sided dice today.  So of course, I knitted a dice bag out of some leftover Araucania Nature Cotton.

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purpose of reverse stockinette?

Why do pattern designers use reverse stockinette instead of just garter stitch on a garment that's not reversible (by which I mean that said garment never be worn on the other side, not that I think that everything knitted in reverse st. st. is actually meant to be reversible...)?

Is it just because it produces a thinner/less bulky fabric, or is there a very good reason that I'm overlooking?

Just curious.