August 24th, 2006

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An Opinion Poll of Sorts

I'm close to finishing a sweater, and I'm tempted to vary the finishing technique slightly -- it's a sweater with set-in sleeves (the first one I've made with that particular sleeve style), and the instructions say to sew the shoulder seams on the body first, and then sew the sleeves to the body before sewing the side seams and sleeve seams all in one go. The other two sweaters I've made, though, called for sewing the shoulder seams first, seaming the sides of the body, seaming the sleeves, and then sewing the sleeves to the body.

So -- assuming all other things being equal (I've blocked everything, I take care with the actual stitching of the seams, etc.), is there any reason why I can't seam the body and sleeves separately and attach the sleeves to the body last? Or would this look like a smacked ass, for some reason which I'm not aware?...

(Yes, I do know I'm being a big paranoid wimp. :-> )

Lili's Vest - Suggestions?

Has anyone else in the community attempted to knit Lili's Vest from Knit Picks? (link: )

So far, both myself and another more experienced knitting friend have given it a shot, and both of us are highly frustrated with it - the pattern is not worded well and is very confusing (at least to me). I really love the look of the vest, but I'm wondering if there is any reasonable way to knit this up without totally recreating the pattern, based on the photo. Any ideas? Thoughts? Helpful hints?

Note to self...never again attempt a pattern for a vest that is over 8 pages long


Hi all - I have a quick plea for help - as a beginner knitter I was trying to find an easy pattern for my first sweater/pull-over project and I found Paris Loop. Having already gotten some beautiful Tahki Viva yarn in Berry from my LYS, I planned on using that instead, and I knew that I would be a little short on yarn, so I got some Lana Grossa ULTRA off ebay, one in purple and three in green...Apparently I still miscalculated and am finding that I am just one ball short for my Paris Loop. I have googled all over for the Tahki Viva and cannot find it anywhere, and I can't find any Lana Grossa ULTRA in purple - does anyone have an extra ball of either the Tahki Viva in Berry or the Lana Grossa ULTRA in purple - or pink or anything? I would be willing to pay you or I can even swap something from my stash. Any help would be appreciated, thanks so much!!
  • Current Mood
    frustrated frustrated

DPNs and YOs?

I have started to knit a dishcloth that is knit circularly from the middle out on double pointed needles. The pattern requires me to do yarn overs between stitches that are on different needles. I have tried to just kind of put the yarn in front, but neither did that create a hole or add a stitch. Could any instruct me or point me to directions on how to create yarn overs between needles? Thank you!!

A few questions about colour work in the round

Okay, im a pretty experenced knitter, but up until now everything I really did was flat and stripes/one colour and stuff like that. I have recently (in the past year)picked up dpn's/ fairaisle (which I LOVE!) cabling, and knitted garments in the round. Go me.

But I have a bit of a problem when working in the round now. I am knitting a bunch of baby longies/shorties and diaper soakers.
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So my question is, how do I do stripes in the round and not have that interruption at the start and end of a new stripe. You all know what I am talking about right? I think someone called it a "seamless jog stripe" or something like that? I just want the stripes to look clean and even.

Also, I can do fairaisle and carry my yarn across the back of the work nicely. But intarsia escapes me. I am more of a "do-er" type of learner, but I don't have anyone around me to show me how to do it. So what tutorials are your favorite. I searched around, I think that is the address, and I didn't find like a step by step instruction. I would really appreciate it. I have visions of black and white stripes longies for my daughter with a hot pink skull on her butt!!!

Thanks so much for you help in advance.

Designing Patterns - Set-in Sleeves

I have an idea for a sweater/jumper in my head and I'm thinking of drafting up a pattern of some sort. Ideally I would like to have set-in sleeves.

I have read the article (which to me reads a little like stereo instructions) and I've googled the topic and read a couple blog postings but I need more.

Can any of you lovely knitters offer me some tips on designing a set in sleeve for a pullover sweater? Specifically what types of measurements I'll need to take from my body (in layman's terms) and how those translate to the shaping of the sleeve cap and the armscye on the torso of the garment.

Thanks everyone!

Yarn substitution

Hey guys, I have a quick question:

I recently bought a vintage pattern book which doesn't list the yarn in yards but only ounces. (It's Bernat Krysta just in case anyone has a skein lying around and could measure.. :) )

If I know it's a bulky yarn (90% Orlon & 10% Nylon) and there's 2 oz/skein, any idea how many yards it might contain?

I'm having a heck of a time trying to guess, and I'm so eager to get started!

Brioche Hat from Weekend Knitting decreases

I curse Project Runway to the fashion houses of hell because they're about all I get when I google anything for this hat. Well, that and people saying that they're having the same problem as me but no actual answers.

The directions for the third decrease round read:

With D, continue in brioche stitch as established (round 2 of brioche pattern), but when you come to 2 D sts next to each other, work them as ktog (first D st and its yo),k1.

Fine, I get the first bit. It's that k1 at the very end that has me scratching my head (and it's quite possibly the reason I keep getting screwed up on the next round). Where are you supposed to do the K1? The last stitch of the round? The stitch after the k2tog mentioned above? I have tried placing it both ways, and either way it ruins the integrity of the pattern (to my eyes). Any help would be much appreciated.

ETA: I'm a complete heel. It was a case of bad reading comprehension on my part. I was treating the D st and its yo as a single st and knitting that with the next D st. The D st and its yo are the k2tog. Gah!

Yarn Substitution question about Fetching

I apologise if this is a stupid question, I really know nothing about fibres.

I scooped up several balls of Debbie Bliss Cotton Angora on sale (reduced from £4.95 for 50g to 95p!) the other day. It's 80% cotton, 20% angora, and it feels absolutely gorgeous.

My question is, would this be an appropriate yarn to knit Fetching with? I really like the pattern, and it would be economical use of the yarn. I have a couple of balls, but they are all different colours so I can either do 5 little projects, or a striped scarf - and I don't really want to waste this yarn on another striped scarf.

So, would this work? If not, does anybody have any suggestions with what I could possibly knit with different coloured Cotton/Angora? Thanks in advance.

FO - Here Be Dragons Socks (upscaled)

Pattern:Here there Be Dragons
Designer:Theresa L. Walunas
Yarn:Great Adirondack Soxie in "Old English"
Needles:Size 1 Bamboo DPNs
Pattern ReviewWhen I saw the colors of this yarn I immediately thought of dragons and remembered seeing a dragon sock pattern somewhere so I found it and started it. I learned a new cast on (German Twisted) and I'm quite pleased with the look and stretch of it. I'll be using it on socks in the future. The tops of my socks are curling a bit, and though it looks OK, I would prefer it if they didn't do that, so I'll likely add some garter stitch at the top if I do this pattern again. Overall, the pattern is quite clear and thorough. The charts are easy to read. I do love how Theresa took the time to chart out the pattern down into the heel shaping and toe shaping. It's a very polished look. I'd recommend this pattern for sure. The upscaled version is great for medium women's sizes. I haven't tried the downscaled version that should work up a bit larger.
Yarn ReviewI hesitated to buy this yarn. It looked a bit overspun in the hank. It was winding back on itself in a few places. However, it wasn't horrible, so I gave it a try. It feels very nice and has worked up well. There's not enough extra twist to cause it to bias, so that's good. I think it could have used more rinsing though, as it turned my finger slightly red where I tensioned the yarn.

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I'm not normally one to have gauge issues, but I'm having major trouble getting gauge for a particular pattern.  I'm using the exact recommended yarn and everything! I need to complain.  Here goes:

The yarn is schoeller+stahl Merino Stretch.  It's a merino/acrylic/PBT Polyester blend.  It looks about worsted weight but is stretchy.  The gauge given is 24 sts/27 rows per 4 inches in the cable pattern using size 10 needles.  The cable pattern is stockinette with an 8 stitch cable (4 over 4) across all stitches every 10th row, it's a vertically lengthened version of a standard basketweave cable pattern.

My gauge with 10's in cable pattern: 32 sts / 28 rows in cable pattern.  I like the fabric, but it is rather on the firm side. And only... oh... 8 stitches and one row too many for every four inches.  A MAJOR difference.
My gauge with 10.5's in cable pattern: 27 sts / 25 rows in cable pattern. I like the fabric, but I certainly wouldn't want anything looser.  Three stitches too many and two rows too few! Ack! Angst!
I tried with 11s and it looked like crud.  It's a zip front cardigan, and with even the slightest horizontal stretch the fabric looked horrid.

I just CANNOT get gauge.  Is there something I'm missing??  I can't remember the last time it didn't work the first try on the recommended needles (I guess I'm paying for it now?).  I'm making large swatches, washed and blocked (although with the stretchy yarn and the intense cables, blocking did not change dimensions noticably), measuring in the center, so I know I'm good there.  I know how to adjust the pattern, that's not my problem, but I'm mystified at how what they have would be feasable if the fabric is essentially fan folded every 10th row.

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Okay kids, I need some really newbie help with sweater construction!! Yayyyyy!!!

Seriously though, anyone who could help me out with this, I'd love you for it.

This is my first *real* sweater. A little fair isle number from the new Vogue Knitting (which I love mostly all of, by the way). Maybe a little ambitious for my first shot at sweater making, but I figured that fair isle is so easy anyway, it would just be like I'm only dealing with learning the construction of a sweater.

So mostly, I just want to make sure I get everything right with the increases and decreases.

So when the pattern says:
Bind off 5 sts at beg of next 2 rows, 2 sts of next 4 rows. Dec 1 st each side every other row 7 times - 70 sts.

Does that mean that I do all of that in succession? Like, first I bind off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next two rows that come up, and then bind off 2 stitches at the next 4 rows after the ones I already bound off, and THEN decrease 1 stitch every other row after all of the other rows of binding off??

Also, this whole "bind off at the beginning" of the row doesn't quite make sense to me - are you seriously just binding it off at the beginning of the row you're on? Not at the end of it as well? Won't that make the armholes uneven? Or will it all even out in the end, since the front and the back will be opposites?

I think that's all I really need help with at this point. It's turning out SO nice, I'm really excited about it... so I don't want to mess it up with my assumptions and guesswork! Hah!

Thanks everyone!!