August 27th, 2006

smelly knitting

Hello guys. I've been lurking for a few months now, and I really need your powers.

I'm hoping somebody here can help me with two issues which have come up while I knitted a gauge swatch for Melissa Wehrle's Granny Smith Cardigan. I'm not using the recommended yarn because I'm too poor for Rowan Kidsilk Haze, so I thought it would be a great plan to just get some horrible mohair off ebay (you can see where this is going already...) and try to wing it. The yarn is Tootal Legend, which is 88% mohair and 12% nylon.

Ok, so my first issue was that it came up way too big using the recommended needle size, so I've gone down to 2.75mm needles and have got gauge (woo yay houpla!). My issue is, will my ribbing look funny now if I go down one needle size for it? I can't think of anything else to do really, so I just need reassurance about it.

My second question is about my yarn. I actually really like the colour, and it's really nice and soft. However, after measuring the swatch a first time I blocked it, planning to measure it again. On contact with water the whole thing smelled like burning! Is this normal? It didn't smell while I was working on it, and the balls don't smell, only my (now dry) swatch. I am very concerned!

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Pattern help

Has anyone made the Pea Pod baby set from Interweave (free pattern) for a newborn?
I thought this pattern _was_ for a newborn and went out and bought the yarn, came home and read the pattern again and it says 3-6 months :(
Ugh. So, if anyone has successfully modified this for a newborn, please share your pattern changes.
Also, if you have any suggestions for a similar pattern (hat and sweater using dk yarn) for a newborn, I would appreciate those as well. Thanks!
  • Current Mood
    confused confused
skins || could you ever love a mistress?

(no subject)

Hey everyone!

I have a quick question about scoop neck sweaters. I'm making one right now without a pattern. For every twenty MC rows I have five CC rows. When I finally finished the scoop neck and cast on more stitches to join my knitting, I realized that I would be making colour changes almost in the front center part of my sweater, meaning that you can see where each row of a new colour begins. I tried to think of a way to move my colour change onto the side of the sweater, under the sleeves, but couldn't. I'm already down to the waist so I probably won't change it (I'm thinking large buttons or something, placed in the middle, that will cover the errors? haha) but it would be good to know for next time.

So, obviously, here's my question: when creating a scoop neck in a multi-coloured sweater, how do you begin a new row on the side of the sweater rather than in front? Can you do this at all when knitting in the round?

I would add photos, but my camera broke somehow last week, sorry! And thanks for the help.

FO: world's warmest hat

About two months ago, I knit this hat and this scarf for my "third grandmother."

She liked the scarf, but returned the hat because she likes hats with a fold-up brim. She warned me when I was knitting it that she liked her hats like that, but I thought she meant she liked them that way for warmth, not looks, and since my hat was fully lined, I figured it wouldn't be a problem. Well, it was. She just doesn't like how they look.

So I remade the hat for her, incorporating the cable element in the scarf into the fold-up brim, and leaving the rest in stockinette:

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She'd better friggin like this one, because I hate making hats and I am NOT making her a new one :) Although I'm not crazy about how the crown on this one puckers, and might remake just the crown and start my decreases earlier and spaced more widely, to get it to lie more smoothly.

On the bright side, I get to keep the first hat. I'd've frogged it to make the new one, but I like it, and since I lost my only warm hat last winter, I need a new hat anyway!

Oh, and is it just my computer, or has this community been running kinda wonky? It takes a while to load and tends to freeze up, for me, while the rest of LJ seems unaffected.

overambitious unrealistic?

anybody know of a pattern for knitted tights? I was thinking that I could use 4-ply and teeny tiny circulars, start with 12" like I would for socks and periodically knit it to longer circulars (I'm growing a collection of Boye interchangable circulars) up two big tubes for the legs, and do like half of a skirt pattern, then graft the leg tubes to the body tube, and put elastic in the waist. It'd take forever, I know.

i realize this may be a ridiculous idea. it is okay it you want to tell me that.

What fiber might possibly work? somethink that would stretch, I'm guessing, and wash back to shape?

anyone done tights? I love stripey tights.


Quick substitution question

I'd like to substitute Knitpicks Swish superwash for the Classic Elite Renaissance in the Cinxia pattern on Has anyone done this?

Here are the specs for the two:

Swish superwash
Content: 100% Superwash Wool
Amount: 110 yards/50 gram ball
Gauge: 4-4.5 sts=1" on #6-9 needles

Classic Elite Renaissance
Description: 100% Wool
Gauge: 4½ sts/inch on #8 needles or 5 sts/inch on #7 needles
Skein Weight: 50 grams
Skein Yardage: 110

In addition, the two look very similar in terms of twist.

Any opinions greatly appreciated.

(no subject)

Thanks to you all who suggested I make the 3-6 month size, I started the hat from the Pea Pod baby set and need some help here.
I'm working where it says:
"Work Leaf Lace chart 0 (1, 1) time(s), then work Leaf Lace Finishing chart. After charts have been completed, work even. At the same time, when Row 5(3, 1) of Leaf Lace Finishing chart has been worked, arrange sts
so that there are 18 (20, 24) sts on each needle. Shape crown: First needle: Work in patt to last 2 sts, k2tog; second, third and fourth needles: ssk, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog. Work last dec on first needle: ssk, then work to end of needle. Work decs every 3rd rnd once, every 2nd rnd 2 (2, 3) times, and then every rnd until 8 sts rem."

I'm confused by the shaping. Do I start the shaping on row 5 of the leaf lace finishing chart? Or on row 6? If I start it on row 5 or 6, it seems I will not have enough rows of the leaf lace finishing chart to do the decreases as stated above. Am I supposed to do the decreases on the first needle every time? If so it seems this would mess up the lace panel which is on the first needle. It seems above that it says "First needle: Work in patt..." and also "Work last dec on first needle:..." So I am decreasing twice on the first needle?
Then it says work decs every 3rd round once, every 2nd round 2 times... but there are only 11 rounds in the leaf lace panel...
Man, I am so confused!
Carrie Dooby

Lace Turtle Patter

I'm currently working on the Pacific Northwest shawl as a bridal gift for a close friend of mine.  She loves turtles, so I am hoping to replace the fish pattern with a turtle pattern.  Before I recreate the wheel and chart my own pattern, I am wondering if any of you have run across any simple lace turtle patterns.  I've Googled, but am having a hard time finding anything - just a bunch of turtleneck sweaters with lace in them.  If you don't have any handy turtle charts, but have tips on writing your own lace chart for something, that would be helpful and appreciated too.
Ice City

How to make an Illusion or Shadow knit chart?

I need to convert a fairly complicated line-art image to an illusion or shadow knitting chart.

I checked the memories and didn't see this addressed (and am therefore tagging this entry Apparently I don't have the permissions to put this under the techniques tag) - I tried asking on the YahooGroups list and everybody just parroted back to me what I said already wasn't working, much to my frustration. The fact that they continued to do it after I clarified I already tried it - which leads me to believe they didn't actually bother to read my message to begin with - has only added significantly to my frustration. I felt like I was being patronised.

Either my Google Fu is *broken* in this regard, or the *specific and detailed instructions* on how to take an *image* and *put it onto a chart* with the specific purpose of knitting an illusion or shadow knit pattern are not readily available.

Please, because this became an issue of frustration on the list, do not tell me to look at a chart that already exists so I will "get it" - I looked, I don't "get it". Please do not tell me to do something simple and geometric, because that is not the pattern I need. Please do not give me an explanation of the process of the actual knitting - I understand that just fine.

What I don't understand is how to make a image that doesn't yet exist as an illusion pattern INTO an illusion pattern, because I cannot manipulate graphics software in that manner.

If it helps, I have both the image and a knit-pro graph of the image, but I haven't quite figured out how to manipulate that into the illusion chart.

Is there a group on LJ about this? (*mutter interests search mutter*) I thought there was a link to the varying LJ knitting communities on the knitting userinfo page, but I can't seem to find it any more?
SN Dean Sam bitch pie now

FO - Basketweave Shawl

I started this a couple of months ago but am finally finished. It's
loooooong. Maybe 6 feet? Anyway, here are some pics of it at the
moment. It's stretched out on the dining room table being blocked.

I used Merino Alpaca in silver with size 10 needles. Not sure what the
gauge was as I don't usually make a swatch.

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    relieved relieved

Questio about loose floats in stranded colorwork

I am working on Manresa from the most recent issue of knitty. This is my first try at stranded color work and I am a little concerned.

On the first row of the chart, there are only two stitches, direclty opposite from each other on the leg, that are in the CC. When floating the CC between these stitches, I end up with a reaaaaally long, really floppy strand of yarn. I understand that it has to be this way so they they will fit right, but I have a couple of questions....

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  • Current Mood
    curious curious

International shipments

So a few days ago, I realized that Knitpicks doesn't ship internationally (I live in Denmark). After spending months looking at yarn, fantasizing about patterns and lace and lovely, cheap yarn (poor student here), it never once occurred to me to check if they shipped internationally. I was quite upset when I found out that they don't. Of course, you can have it shipped to a friend's address in the US, and then they can send it to you.
This just doesn't seem like a great solution for me. I do have a couple of penpals in America, but 1) we aren't so close that I'd have them forward yarn for me, and 2) it just seems like a hell of a trouble, PLUS I'd be paying for double shipment. So I was wondering if anyone knew of a forwarding service? I don't know if such a thing even exists, it just seems like a brilliant idea to me - that you can order stuff in the US, and have it forwarded through some service.

Any help? Anyone who has found a solution to this problem? Knitpicks has some yarn that I'd like to get my hands on, but I'd REALLY hate to pay for double shipment or inconvenience anyone with forwarding yarn. But I guess I'll just have to look elsewhere, if all else fails. :)

Thank you in advance!
  • Current Music
    Marilyn Manson - Para-noir

my first real FO! cleo clutch

i'm kind of embarassed to say that i've been casually knitting for about 3 years and this is my first 'real' finished object ever, but i'm pretty proud of it if i do say so myself! (i say 'real' because i actually followed a pattern this time, and its not just a garter stitched scarf that was meant for practice.) =P  i think i started it some time in june and it took me up till now to finish because of summer school, teacher exam studying, and being lazy, but i'm pretty sure that all of you way more experienced and dedicated knitters than i could finish the clutch in no time. =)

Yarn: One skein of Cascade 220 in what was called 'sky blue' on the ebay listing, but the label said color no. 7816 (a bright turquoise color that didnt photograph well with my camera)
Needles: US Size 10 bamboo (not sure of the exact brand, but i was able to get them for only $1.50 at the japanese supermarket near my house!)
Pattern: Spun Magazine - Cleo Clutch
Finished Dimensions (after felting and blocking): mine turned out to be about 9" by 6" (my boyfriend says its a good size for my nintendo ds)

i had trouble with the pattern at first because there was an error in it, but i emailed the author and she straightened everything out. so if anyone wants to knit the clutch please note that although the pattern says "T4B = Sl next two sts to cn and hold in back of work, p next 2 sts, k sts from cn"  it is actually "T4B = Sl next two sts to cn and hold in back of work, k next 2 sts, p sts from cn."

anyways, here are the much awaited pictures! (my first time posting pictures under the cut, so please bare with me! i hope i get it right and if not i apologize in advance for the mistake, but i'll get it right eventually!)
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Socks FO and useful info about proportion

Hi all,

I think I've finally figured this sock thing out! I just finished the a pair of socks that I didn't have to frog at any point during the process! I did learn a really useful tip about proportion. I often knit while commuting, and I can't easily measure the item during that time. Usually with socks, I'll try them to figure out when I need to start heel/toe, but I found an easier way.

The distance from the tip of my middle finger to the base of my palm is the same distance as from the toe to start of the heel (for toe up socks) or from the heel to the start of the toe (for top down sock.) I like short-ish socks (4"/10cm height), and my index finger is that same length. So I can just hold the sock up to my finger and compare the length to get a feel for how much more I have to knit.

Slytherin socks (knit for a friend who loves all things Hogwarts):

Yarn: Savvyminx Hand Dyed Yarns in the Salazar colorway, superwash merino, one skein.

Needles: size 1 Addi Turbos, 40" length (for magic loop method)

Pattern: kind of a mish mash. One sock was knit toe up, using easy toe method and short row heels; the other was knit cuff down with long tail cast on, short row heel, and shaped toe (grafted shut using kitchener stitch). The leg is knit in K5,P3 rib and topped with a K1,P1 ribbing at the cuff.

I love this yarn. It is so soft and plush that I can hardly wait to make another pair of socks with it. Although my socks are short, there was enough yarn to make socks a few inches longer.

I don't think I'll mix the K5,P3 ribbing with K1,P1 ribbing again. The K5,P3 ribbing pulls in a lot, so the socks look pretty odd when they aren't being worn. Although the socks are very stretchy and functional, I just don't like how the two ribbing styles look next to each other. I'm also still trying to figure out how to prevent ladders from forming, which is the only thing I don't like about the Magic Loop method. I rearrange the stitches every few rows but ladders still form. I washed and blocked the socks, and the ladders don't seem quite so pronounced now, and I'm hoping that the yarn will settle in to a more even shape over time.

All I need to do is weave in the end and I can give the socks to my friend. We have the same size feet so if she doesn't like them, I'll be happy to wear them myself. :)

Here are some links to photos

comparing my hand to the sock's foot length
me modeling the socks

Also, I'm trying to reduce my yarn stash. Read under the cut for more info

EDIT--all the yarn has found new homes.