The question of mitered cables has come up a couple of times in the last week, and the number one answer to this question seems to be get Viking Knits by Elizabeth Lavold. I figured since I have the book I would share the 'big' secret and spare people the expense of getting the book.
I'm hurriedly putting together a package to send to my brother for his new daughter, due in November. I have two weeks to make more stuff and send it off because they're leaving the country at the end of September and I won't have any way of getting things to them for a long time!
So here are baby Mary Janes, baby socks, and a duckling:
Also, a vote: I have a $25 Border's gift certificate burning a hole in my pocket. Of course, I'm thinking of getting a knitting book. I DON'T want another pattern book, because I have more patterns than I can ever hope to finish. I DO watch either a stitch dictionary or a technique/reference book (how to block, how to make buttonholes, necklines, etc.). It obviously has to be IN PRINT and available at Border's (so no Barbara Walkers or Vogue Knitting for me). What would you get?
I am attempting to make Knitty’s Daisy, but rather than use the yarn called for, I’m using Knitpicks Shine sport doubled. My gauge is 17 sts/24 rows per 4”. The pattern calls for 20 sts/28 rows per 4”. I’ve managed to account for the stitch gauge – I’m going to be casting on 95 stitches, and splitting front/back into 24/47/24, then decreasing appropriately – but I am stumped on the row gauge.
It’s fine for the first part of the body/arms – it’s done by measurement. However, then come the raglan decreases and this is where I get stuck. The decrease section as written in the pattern is 4” tall. If I do this as written with my gauge, I will have 4.66”. The extra .66” seems like it MIGHT be okay – but I’d rather adjust it to be only 4”. The only way I can see to do this is to cut four rows while somehow still decreasing to the right number of stitches. The way the pattern is written it alternates a RS decrease row with a WS plain row. I don’t see any way to cut four rows out and still decrease the right number of sts without doubling up on the decreases at the raglan edge twice. This *might* work, but it also might create a funny (read: not smooth) edge. This seems like it will be more trouble than it’s worth.
Thus, I am asking for advice with the following: in an infant’s sweater (6-12 month size), how much difference will .66” make at the raglan seam? I haven’t worked out the sleeve adjustment yet, but I am fairly confident that I can match the sleeve decreases to the body decreases, I just need to know how concerned I need to be with this extra .66”. Is there another technique I am missing for adjusting the depth of the raglan edge? I thought about just casting on proportionally fewer stitches, but that’s a total of 16 stitches (4 at each seam), which is nearly 4” in circumference and that won’t work!
I would really appreciate any help with this! Thanks.
hey all! i was just thinking about all the projects i want to do, and the projects i am currently working on, and how long it seems to take me to finish anything. i thought i would ask the peeps here to see how fast (or slow) y'all finish your projects. i know everyone knits at their own rate and different people have different amounts of time they can knit, but i thought it would be interesting to see what people had to say about project completion.
Real Men Knit is a reality! I'm not sure if it's going to be sold completely online or at LYSes, too, but in any case YAY! From the trailer, it looks to be a pretty darn good DVD, and yes, I'd say that even if I wasn't in it! Tell the men in your life about this! :D
I finished my socks using Rowan Magpie's #694 Toad (dark khaki green). Thanks to all who answered my post about it a couple of weeks back. They're warm and soft! Unfortunately I don't have a digital camera so I can't take a picture for viewing. I used a pattern that was given to me by one of the women at my LYS, which she got using Sock Wizard.
My next project right now is a pair of thigh-to-toe knit hose modeled on the Gunnister stockings that date to the late 16th century in Scotland. They're for re-enactment costuming. I found a web site that has a sample pattern for them, and I'm adapting it to what I prefer as far as wearing (for example, the pattern calls for a 12-row welting of garter stitch...I did 12 rows of k1, p1 rib instead). I wanted something inexpensive in a sport-weight yarn, so the same person at the LYS who gave me the sock pattern recommended either Dale Hauk or Heilo, both of which I have used before. I liked the idea of the waterproofing in the Hauk, so I'm using that, with a size 3 circular needle. I've tried on the top part of it, and it fits nicely so far (and they will have knit garters to go along with them). I'm using a light grey color, since I wanted something that looked like newly spun sheep wool (though much more perfect in gauge than I can do with my drop spindle). I'm unclear on the rules for citing web sites, but if it is okay, and if anyone wants to see the model I'm using, I'll post it in a comment reply.
And I do have a question: where can I find a source for the true story of the development of Aran sweaters? I have only recently found out that they are *not* the legendary family fishing sweater, and would like to read more about it. Thanks.
I've been working on a ruffle scarf from an older issue of Vogue Knitting. A portion of the pattern has me completely confused as to how to proceed. I'd be interested in seeing how the helpful folks in knitting interpret them. ( Collapse )
You may remember that a while back I posted my not-so-lovely experience with a Lion Brand order. In the interest of being fair, I wanted to tell you all about a great experience with The Naked Sheep Yarn Co. I found their website because I am planning on knitting this Berroco pattern: Eudora. I had purchased yarn from Lion to make a blanket for my sister's wedding. It was my first time attempting anything with cables, and while not cables in the sense that most of us think of with cables, the pattern was pretty neat. The cabling made little trees throughout the blanket.
In any event, I found Naked Sheep through Berroco's website. I was able to order the more expensive yarn on Ebay in the colour I wanted, but not the other yarn. Well, I received an email today that Naked Sheep was out of my colour. Their communication has been superb. Not only have they made sure I was aware of how long it will likely be before it gets in (so as not to hold up my project), but shipping of it is free. They have just been really on top of it, so kudos to the Naked Sheep.
Now for a question about the above pattern. ( Collapse )
I am about to attempt something on the sweater I'm working that has the potential to be rather dumb. As such, I'd like to put in a lifeline where I am now so that I can easily rip back if it turns out that my modifications aren't as well planned-out as I'd thought.
My one concern is that I am knitting my sweater using Cascade Pastaza, which felts the moment you look at it, let alone knit it. I'm not bothered about that for frogging, as I can stick it in my freezer for a couple of hours, but I'm worried about the lifeline.
What sort of fiber would you recommend for a lifeline in this instance? I'd like to use something that I can pull out relatively easily when the project is completed. Wool is right out, as it would get felted into the Pastaza. Would worsted cotton work, or am I missing some potential problem with fibers getting stuck to the lifeline? Would crochet cotton or sewing thread possibly work, if I could find something strong enough that I don't have to worry about it breaking? I'd like to use yarn from my stash as it's silly to buy a whole skein for a single lifeline, so there's no acrylic that could be used for this.
i finally finished the lotus lace tank from interweave knits summer 06... ( Collapse ) it's made from swtc bamboo... turned out a little big, but i think it's supposed to be like that because it's a little big on the model too. i think i'll end up wearing it over a little t-shirt anyhow. i love it! it's fun to knit.
my boyfriend, who has picked up knitting insanely quickly, is wanting to knit a pair of biking arm warmers. they'd basically be a sleeve either all ribbed or ribbing just on the top and bottom, but he doesn't want them to go any lower than his wrist. i have no idea what the best pattern would be to base these off of since i can't just use a generic wrist warmer pattern and extend it. he also wants them to sit very snug against his arm, so would have to have well placed increases and decreases to stay within the contours of his forearm.
Hi everone, I just found out that there's a community on lj for knitting, so I think I'd be good if I post my question here. Tomorrow I have to go back to school and I was in a creative mood today, I thought it'd be nice if I could make a few things on my own. I want to make my own pencase. I'd like to make it in the shape of a rectangle, maybe with a small zip on top of it. Just a simple shape really, not too hard since I'm not that professional in knitting. I was also thinking about putting an image of cherries on it, maybe by glue or knitting it on. There's 2 things I need to know;
- Are there any good tutorials on knitting a pen case in the shape of a rectangle? - How do I knit a zip on top of it? - How do I knit (or glue?) a print on it?
I know this is not too hard to do but I'm new to knitting and I'd like not to work too long on the pen case since I'd like to start using it at the beginning of the schoolyear. Sorry if my english stinks. x