Alright, I've hit another snag in my hat making. Other than waffling so hard on the "to blue or not to blue" question.
I have never met this woman in person so I don't know how big her head is. Normally, I would just make a medium and split the difference. However, I do know she's a very petite woman who has trouble finding professional clothes and such which will actually fit her. Would this carry over into head size? I mean, I think it's reasonable, but I don't know. And there are plenty of tall people with smallish heads and medium people with very large noggins. So I'm sort of at a loss.
So, petites out there, do you have trouble finding commercial hats that fit because they're too big or too deep?
ETA: Hm, from everyone I've asked and the responses here, seems like there's no correlation between height and head circumference. So I've asked a mole to try and find out. I don't know if she'll succeed, but it's got to be better than flying completely blind. Thanks, everyone!
I really like the look of Elann's Peruvian Quechua, but I really don't like any of the colours it comes in, so I wanted to dye over them. I've only ever dyed anything using Kool-Aid, and I was wondering if it would work on this, or if I should pick a different yarn. (the reason I'm set on Kool-Aid dyeing is, I live with other people, and if I were to use acid-dyes, I would have to buy a new pot specifically for dyeing this, and then find somewhere to hide it so that no one used it for food. If I can use something edible, it greatly reduces the risk of poisoning my roommates.)
so i bought the set and so far i really like them. my problem is i'm using the us 4 needle tips and trying to screw them on to the 40" cable. one tip screwed on no problem, but the other keeps getting stuck. i've trying switching the needles, but it still won't go. has anyone else had this problem? does anyone know of a quick fix? i have emailed knitpicks but i wanted to check here to see if any of you all had any ideas. Thanks!
I think I'm ready to take the plunge into a big project like a sweater! I like the look of the Big Sack Sweater (pg 203) in Stitch and Bitch.
Has anyone made this and have comments on the pattern? DId you use the yarn called for or a substitute (if so, what?)?
Or do you have a suggestion for a better pattern for a similar sweater?
EDIT: After reading all the errata notes on this pattern, I've decided this isn't a good first go for sweater making. A friend gave me a great pattern yesterday for a top down cardi with small cables on each side of the opening. It's a Paton's booklet and I can't wait to get started. THANK YOU TO EVERYONE FOR THE FEEDBACK!
I have a question about blocking washable knits like cotton and superwash.
After completion of the project and blocking, the piece is at its best, we all know that. However, what happens, then, when you wash and dry the piece? Does the blocking still maintain the item's shape or will it need to be re-blocked after the washing and drying process? It seems like the process of washing and drying it would undo anything a little pinning and steaming would do.
Should the item be washed and dried before the initial blocking?
I ask because I'm making a lace scarf out of a cotton blend, and I can tell it would benefit a lot from blocking, but I don't know if it will hold up when my sister washes it and dries it. I also have a couple more washable projects in the works, and no blocking tutorial I've read clarifies this issue.
So I've read a lot of online tutorials on blocking, and have even blocked one piece (the ubiquitous clapotis) but I am still a bit new to it and thus I am curious: Can a piece be blocked to be smaller?
See, I knit a knitty's topi (http://knitty.com/ISSUEspring06/PATTtopi.html) for my boyfriend, because he likes the cadet-style hats, and I am worried it may be a little too large. I matched the diameter to another cadet cap of his, a linen one he bought and really likes, and so I thought that this one would be the same size, but somehow the finished product just seems... too big. He's out of town right now and this gift should be a surprise, that's why I didn't measure his head directly.
So back to the original question: can it be blocked to be smaller, or is this a hopeless cause? The yarn, btw, is Lana Grossa Numero Uno 100% virgin wool, machine washable.
EDIT: Thanks for the helpful comments... I got the answer I expected plus some helpful tips! Sounds like sewing something inside is the way to go. Thanks again.
Plain old garter stitch can be boring, but it can also be a relief when, say, your other project involves oodles of cables and you realized you've been knitting where you should have been purling for the past five rows. I finally fixed that, but I needed a reprieve.
A note for other beginners to lace: This is an excellent starters pattern aside from the fact that it is so small (US size 1!). The beads really help keep track of what row I'm on, so I havn't had any mistakes.
I'm knitting a sweater and I thought I followed the directions, but AFTER I binded off I noticed that there is no way I could sew an arm to that armhole. The directions said, "Row 1-4, bind off 8 stitches, knit across, 8 stitches both sides". Now there is two straight binded off rows of 8 stitches on either side and then 3 rows on top of simple stockinette.
My question is this, how do I undo if I've already binded off? Not only is the armhole binded off, but the shoulders are as well. The neck is in a stitch holder.
Can anyone help me, please!!! I've been searching for a while but I can't seem to find what I want and my eyes can't take it anymore. I'm looking for a pattern for a ski cap for my 5 year old nephew. I don't want it to have a folded up brim and something in a nice stockinette stitch would be lovely. I've worked on circs before with really bad results, but I'm willing to give it another shot. A pattern using straight needles would be ideal.
I'm currently knitting this jacket--technically anyway, though I've shortened it a little, the sleeves will be stockinette with ribbed cuffs, and I've added a bit of waist shaping, and I'd like to add some bust darts, as it'll be fairly snug, and I'm fairy curvy. I understand the principle of short row bust darts for sweaters, but I'm slightly confused about how to implement them in jackets.
Now, the way I'm thinking is, I should put one "dart" on each front panel, which will create a nice bust-space, so to speak, but will also mean the "button edge" sides of the panels will have more stitches than the sides, correct? Will this be a problem, i.e. noticable when I wear the jacket open, or should I not worry about it? Also, can I block the short row areas like normal, or should I block them outwards to have the best result?
I stayed home today to get a head start on Holiday knitting and I knit a scarf using Patons SWS. Then I decided to block it since I had knit in mostly stockinete. Even though it was mostly wool I thought I could toss it in the washer to get it wet. I was wrong. The thing felted!
SO, if anyone is interested in knowing whether Patons SWS felts, the answer is yes, quite well actually. Too bad I wasn't going for that look.
Inspired by a previous knitting post (which of course I can't find), I want to make a hat with a cabled brim in which the cable is a different color than the background. I'm thinking of edging the hatband in I cord in the same color as the cable but I don't know how much "give" the I cord has (I've never made one).
I'm thinking of making a hat similar in style to this Fiber Trends one. The band will be simpler, probably a single large cable (like a Saxon cable) (and some thinner designs to ensure it's wide enough but no bobbles), but I thought an I cord in the same color as the cable might make nice edging along the bottom.
As far as knitting socks go ... if a pattern calls for size 2 needles, and I use size 1 instead, are the socks gonna be that different in size? Should I increase the number of stitches evenly and add a few? Would they still fit if I just followed the pattern? Thanks!
Okay, I appologize ahead of time if this post sounds stupid, but I've been curious for far too long and it's time that I ask the question: Is Knitty's Clapotis difficult to knit? I've "oohed" and "aahed" over the finished product for a really long time, and the finished product really doesn't look like it's that difficult, but man! I find the pattern directions absolutely dizzying! And it takes a fair amount of yarn as well...correct me if I'm wrong there. Is there a specific kind of yarn that it is better to knit with? (The pattern says 50/50 silk and wool, but I usually don't buy silk yarns because they cost a lot)
Does anyone have Clapotis stories that they'd like to share? I would like to be able to finally bite the bullet, go out and get the needed supplies and actually make the darn thing. =) I just need some encouragement.