September 29th, 2006
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Edited to replace the two sock pics that had
I'm looking at the methods explained in Knitty's article on repairing techniques and I think the second method of weaving would be ideal for this situation, except that I have no sturdy stitches that I can run thread through (the ones I have are weak and may break under the strain of sewing thread). Also, there's a number of frayed split yarn ends getting in the way of me seeing what needs to be done to fix it.
I have two options that I've considered, and I'd like your input as to which would work better, especially if you've done either before. I could:
a. Use duplicate stitch to reinforce the top and the bottom, then use the sewing thread method from Knitty to fix the hole, only rather than leaving the long ends of the yarn loose I'd use them to reinforce the sides of the holes. The advantage of this is that it's "safer" than my second idea, but the disadvantage is that I'll wind up with a relatively thick patch in that area.
b. Cut out a bit of the sweater around the place where the substance ate through the yarn so I have a neater hole and then using the sewing thread method. The advantage of this is that there won't be a noticeable thick patch from where I've reinforced stitches, but the disadvantage is that there's a chance that things will unravel and I'll have made the problem worse rather than better.
I'm leaning toward the latter option, but at the same time it feels suicidal. Have any of you dealt with this sort of problem before? If so, how did you wind up fixing it? Or else, if you're better at visualizing this sort of thing than I am, which method do you think would work better?
Thanks very much in advance.
The Lurex Shimmer is turning this project into a nightmare. It knots and tangles at the drop of a hat. It's also scratchy so I can't knit for more than an hour or two before I need to put it down. At this rate, the gloves won't be done for another year.
I'm going to need to restart everything, because I managed to lose two of my DPN's after moving. I'm flirting with the idea of a Magic Loop, but I've never used one before so I don't know if I can handle it. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can get the Lurex Shimmer cooperate with me? Would a Magic Loop make it easier to prevent huge tangles? (Little tangles are to be expected; it's the one that take hours to fix that I want to avoid.) If that isn't possible, what would be a nice, shiny yarn to replace the Lurex with? I need to be able to get it online because my local LYS's are only open when I'm at work. I would greatly prefer an inexpensive, non-eyelash yarn. Neither I nor my friend have much money and I don't want to hand him a $75 bill when this is done. Fiber is unimportant, as the owner will definitely be handwashing them. Quality is slightly more important, but he will only be wearing them for about 4 hours per month so it isn't critical.
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I have a challenge that I was hoping someone out there would be willing to help me with. I have a skein of this super chunky wool blend (lost the label a long time ago) that I'm hoping to find a cabled hat pattern for. I used the first skein of this yarn on a pair of two needled cable mittens for my daughter. And now I'm really wanting to make her a hat to match. I can knit in the round but at the moment I only have circs in 24" lengths so I'm hoping someone out there knows of a pattern that is for 2 straights. I have googled to my fingers hurt. The only I found so far doesn't even list a gauge and was knit in a worsted weight so I'd kinda need a gauge.
thank you so much if someone can help me :)
I'm moving to an area that doesn't have a lot of craft or yarn stores but they have a hobby lobby. can someone who is near a hobby lobby tell me whether they carry any sock yarn (particularly intersted in the patons sock yarns but also curious about whether they have any at all)?
I'm considering using Cascade 220, but the gauge is 18-20 stitches per 4 inches where Garnstudio's Karisma is 20-22. The pattern lists 19 stitches per 4 inches as the gauge so I'm worried that the fabric created with the Cascade would be less, um, compact than the reccommended yarn. Does this seem like a legitimate concern? Am I spazzing over nothing? Will this all be solved if I quit asking people for help on livejournal and commence swatching?
I have one more question, so please bear with me. Why is the edge ribbing on many sweaters created using significantly smaller needles? Why doesn't this create super funky tension? Is this something that will make more sense to me after merciless blocking?
I just found out that a coworker and his wife are expecting a baby next Spring. I would like to make them something. I wanted to ask the group - if you had a new baby, or had friends expecting one, what are some of the most useful/helpful things to give them? I would like to knit up something that would be helpful. I'm not a "master" knitter, but I'm willing to try anything with good instructions.
Blackberry Ridge silk/wool laceweight, in cream
size 3 needles (Inox grey)
final measurements: about 90" x 25"
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I'm working on a cardigan, and I'm hoping to get it done this weekend, but I need advise on how to seam it. Specifically, with which yarn/thread. The yarn I'm using for the cardigan is Patons Essence, which is a fairly chunky and fuzzy yarn. (It knits up on 8mm/US13 needles.) I'm guessing that's not the best yarn to seam things with. I also have a (very old, so I can't find a pic online) yarn that's thinner, in almost the same colour, and while still also fuzzy, if I roll it between my hands a bit the fuzz goes away. And it's strong, so it seems like this would be a good one to seam the jacket with. Or perhaps I should just go and get embroidery thread in a close enough colour, but all the embroidery thread I've seen comes in rather short strands, so i'm not sure how suitable that is for a cardigan.
So, my choices are:
- Use the chunky yarn;
- Use the thinnger yarn;
- Use embroidery thread; or possibly
- Use something else entirely that I've not thought of yet.
Pics and info in my blog
My right wrist and fingers become sore while knitting two or more rows and I have to stop after a couple of minutes (My left wrist and fingers do not get as sore.). The soreness is not in the carpal, so I know it's not carpal tunnel syndrome. Instead, the soreness is below my thumb toward the wrist joint (If that doesn't make sense, I'll be happy to clarify further.). This only occurs when I knit.
At the risk of appearing whiny and being an attention whore (I'd rather not appear either way.), may I ask if anyone else has this particular problem? If so, how did you get treatment for such a problem? Are there techniques that can counter this problem (I prefer the English method.)?
Clarification: The hollow point right on top of the wrist joint and below the thumb is the problem area.
OK, that out of the way...this was my first adventure in raglan sweater making AND embroidery. It was quite the adventure. I'd like to shout out right up front to esmerel and to sarakate, who really helped me through this and helped me figure out the pattern. Thank you so much for taking the time to answer my questions!
On to the project. This is Knitty's Daisy sweater, made for my nephew Jack Jack, who is a budding Pittsburg Steelers fan. I knew I wanted something that looked kind of stadium jacket like and was hoping to put a Steelers patch or something on it when I was done. I couldn't figure out a good way to do that, so instead my plan was to do the body in black and the sleeves in gold.
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I am working on a bookmark pattern that I found and I'm having some trouble with part of it.
It's worked in seed stitch to start with and I had no problems there. There are 6 stitches on the needle.
The next part reads:
Next Row: knit 2 tog, yarn over, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 2 together. (5 sts) No problems there either.
Here is where I'm getting confused...
Next Row: knit 1, purl 1, increase in next stitch, knit 1, purl 1. (6 sts)
When I attempt to do that row I keep screwing things up. I think it might be with the increase, but I'm not sure. I don't know what type of increase I'm supposed to be using. There are also supposed to be 2 holes for pens or pencils from the yarn overs, but when I'm done the holes aren't there.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I hope that was specific enough and not too confusing. I'll try to clarify if I need to... Thanks :)
Yarn: Cascade 220
Needles: 15 plastic circulars that were once my Grandmother's
Pattern changes: I made the base 4 stitches wider .
Firsts: My first felted project! I was so shocked at how much it shrunk.
Comments: I really should have felted a swatch first. I was going by what the post-felted sample looked like in the store but I didn't know it was knitted with Lamb's Pride, not Cascade 220. My bag shrunk lengthwise a lot more than the sample. I'm really happy about how it turned out though. The felted fabric is incredibly soft and it's much softer than I thought it would be. I can't wait to felt something else!
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