LT (left twist): Ignore the first st on the left needle, and knit into the back of the 2nd st; do not drop. Now knit the first st normally and move both to left needle.
Saying that they should both be moved to the left needle is surely a mistake, isn't it -- it should be the right? And is it supposed to be done by dropping the second stitch when you move the first stitch to the right needle? Otherwise you're creating an extra stitch (since you're not supposed to drop the stitch when you knit into the back of the second one.)
So I decided to make my own version of the Tree Sweater. Mine has a different design though, because it has more of a functional purpose (keeping my boyfriend's palm tree warm this winter) instead of decorative. Here are the pics:
Well, I posted awhile back asking for advice on making a smaller version of Fetching for my teeny wrists, and got some very helpful responses - thanks everyone! I ended up tweaking the pattern quite a bit.
Now, I made my very first trip to a real LYS when I went to pick up the yarn for Fetching. (Romni Wools in Toronto, if you're curious. And, OMFG. That place is evil in a wonderful, wonderful way.) And while I was there, I somehow ended up purchasing this... ( Collapse )
I've dyed with Koolaid many times, but never with Jacquard. I just ordered 3 of knitpicks dye your own sock yarn and two colors of their dye(hot fuchsia and sky blue). I'm wondering if you actually need to cook it for 30 min like the instructions say, or like with koolaid, just heat until simmering then turn off heat and let sit for 30 min, or so. Any input about the Jacquard dye from you knowledgeable folk out there would be appreciated. Thanks!
A couple of weeks ago, I went to an SCA event, and picked up a lovely bag of silk/merino blend roving... I'd spun before, but it was a LONG time ago, so my first yards I spun are kind of... well... it shows the mark of an amateur. I evened out after a while, and before I plied it all, I balled up any of the stuff that wasn't in my estimation "perfect". This was about a hundred yards, plied to about fifty yards (I have approximately 500 yards, plied to 250 yards, of "pretty good to perfect"). It's really soft, but some places are a bit better spun than others, and I would hate to waste 50 yards of yarn, even though it's not what I'd call ideal. It ranges anywhere from chunky weight to sport weight, averaging around worsted weight.
(I don't have any pictures of it yet, but it's a beautiful princess blue)
So, so far, my finished object is a 50 yard ball of rather unevenly spun silk/merino blend. Actually, I have a second finished object of about 250 yards of nicely spun sport-weight two-ply yarn as well, but that I already know what I want to use it for (it would make a nice scarf and hat set).
I hate to waste 50 yards of yarn that took me so long to do, even if it isn't what I'd call "perfect". Anyone have any ideas for such a small amount of yarn?
If you've ever seen any of my posts (which you may or may not have- I've been here for a while but I truly don't expect you to remember that well) you may know that I've been on a mission to find the perfect rainbow-colored yarn for quite some time. In fact, I've failed many times- and the suggestions people give me are always "red Heart mexicana!" which doesn't have the right colors or "Bernat Hot Sox!" which, well, doesn't come in a decent fiber.
But at last, thanks to LavenderSheep on Etsy I have found the perfect yarn, and this yarn is going to be an awesome pair of socks that will be mine... alllll miiiine.I LUFF IT. She doesn't have any listed right now but she has made several skeins in the past. Gorgeous stuff, really.
Seriously. I lufffff it.... It's perfect, just the right amount of everything, colors are vibrant, and not dark. I hate rainbows with green and blue that are too dark. PERFECT.
I'm thinking of asking LavenderSheep to make some more in this colorway so I can make a rainbowey Charlotte, since my SP got me the pattern a while back, but then again, I might make something from "A Gathering of Lace" too. I'm not sure, but I'm thrilled with the whole thing.
So I made up a pattern for a scarf for a friend (could I fit any more prepositions into that sentence?), with drop stitches that will go down the edge. I ran through my first skein. Do I have to do anything special when adding the second skein? Can I just keep knitting garter till the end of the scarf, then drop the stitch?
Got my so-called winter issue of Interweave Knits today, and my initial reaction is - this is WINTER? Why the 3/4 sleeve sweaters, a vest shown over a short sleeved cotton blouse, a sweater leaving the shoulders entirely bare? Taking the pohtos outdoors with lots of green leaves and flowers around doesn't help the feeling. I may eventually even make a few of these, but if they want to get me running to the store to buy yarn nice warm fuzzy sweaters shot against a wintery scene would work a lot better.
They're supposed to go in the dryer and act as a fabric softener; not chemically, but instead, by bouncing around in the dryer to beat on the fabric. They're a hard rubber ball with a lot of soft spikey things on 'em. Does anyone know if they'd work well for felting? it seems to me they would; added agitation, the rubber nodules, and they're not going to disintegrate like tennis balls, but I'm curious if anyone else has tried.
So, I've been working with a lot of applied borders lately. Actually, I'm working on another one tonight, and it occurred to me that I tend to work the join as the last stitch of the wrong side/plain row instead of the first stitch of the right side/pattern row. Which means that the edging proceeds around the item clockwise. However, there's really no reason not to do it the other way. In fact, I recall having done it that way. I just don't write my patterns that way.
So, now I'm wondering how many folks prefer to work it one direction over the other, and how many folks couldn't care less.
I know, it's minutiae. But I've been working on making this thing perfect for the last 8 hours, and my brain has left the premises. I'm currently sitting here wondering how I could do applied I-cord as the edging on an applied border without having to do it separately. And while I've figured it out, my brain isn't working at quite the dexterity to determine if it's worth it! Actually, no, it's not worth it because then I won't have a selvedge to use for seaming, never mind.