November 12th, 2006

SameOldYarn

Yarn recs for chemo caps?

It occurred to me tonight that hey, my co-worker who just had a masectomy will have radiation and chemo treatments coming up in a few weeks, and I'm a pretty decent knitter, so that means I can make her a chemo cap, and that is something I can do to help let her know that she's loved and cared for.

Well, woo-hoo and all that. I've found more patterns than I can shake a stick at, so I'm good there, but now I'm stuck as to what yarn to use. The pattern for Shedir recommends Rowan Calmer, which sounds good, but I can't get Rowan locally and I do like to buy local when I can.

What I have in my stash that may or may not be appropriate is some Misti Alpaca (DK weight), Debbie Bliss merino chunky, and Plymouth Baby Alpaca Brush which is 80% baby alpaca/20% acrylic.

The Plymouth would be my first and last choice because it is so dreamy soft, except that it is a stark black (and the only color my LYS had it in) and I worry that it will be too severe (my friend has dark brown hair and fair skin/blue eyes).

I would love to hear your opinions on actual yarns you've worked with that you think would be appropriate for a chemo cap project - brands and colors. I think that a fairly conservative look will probably be best - I can't see her wearing Chinchilla, for example.

Oh yes - location, location, location. She lives in a small town in the midwest, so conservative (again) and warm for snowy/windy winter are important considerations.

Thanks for sharing your ideas with me!
me

Steeking non-feltable yarns

Okay, so I downloaded Eunny Jang's Argyle Vest, because I am in love with it. This is a direct quote from the intro to the pattern: "This vest uses crocheted steeks to split the armholes and front and back neck. Steeks rely on the natural felting tendency of wool yarns to avoid unraveling when cut - use a pure animal fiber yarn (NOT a superwash) to knit the garment, and a hairy, "sticky" pure animal fiber yarn (NOT a superwash) to crochet the steeks." Which upsets me greatly, as I am allergic to wool, and knitting something I'm going to wear out of it is not an option.

So, has anyone had any sort of success steeking a garment that is not made of wool? Would a different method work, such as a sewn steek? Or should I resign myself to the fact that I just bought a pattern that I can't use?
Bingo the clowno

Entertain me

I am STRUGGLING with this dragon shawl. I'm no novice, I've made countless Aran sweaters that I designed, designed and knit up kilt hose for my Southeastern United States Grand Champion Supreme bagpiper (anyone who knows bagpipes, now knows exactly who I am, LOL), been making socks like crazy, making up fancy patterns as I go, I mean, come ON, I can knit.
But this LACE! SHEESH! It's so tiny that I have to use my fingernails to pick up the stitch to TBL. I can't go back and fix anything because once I pull it off the needle, the stitches are just gone and I've had to frog that sucker 4 times now! 4! All these crazy new stitches have been busting my chops and after all of this, I've never worn a shawl and I'm not convinced they even look good on people. Forced and old fashioned, yes. Practical and comfortable, no.

But I felt the same way about socks when I started. First 3 pair I made didn't even fit (wrong yarn), hated every second of dpns. Knew that store-bought was superior and felt better. Now I won't even wear store-bought. Sigh.

So help me get through this. Come on, share. What's the worst/hardest stitch or pattern you've ever done? Tell me stories.

FO!!

I have asked for advice from this lovely Lj community but never posted a FO.

So with no further ado:
I present:


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The pattern is: Fiber Trends Felt Ballerina Slippers in the smallest kid size
The pattern is for both kid and adult sizes and also comes in a crochet version.
Yarn: Cascade 220
Needles: Size 7 Addi circulars Size 16 inch
Modifications: I knit the flower from the Knitty instructions on felt flowers, and then cut it down, using the extra for the rosebud. I used a recycled felted sweater for the leaves, and both the Cascade yarn and regular embroidery thread for sewing details, and finishing.

Notes: I thought the pattern instructions, especially for the strap part, were a little difficult to understand and almost posted several times here for help in clarification but instead muddled through. I will ask for help though because I'd like to make another pair. Be careful with the felting process, and check frequently for size because the first pair I felted came out too small.
movie: twilight - edward & bella

A Sock FO!

Finished: Socks
Pattern: Jaywalker from Magknits
Yarn: KnitPicks Memories in Geranium
Needles: 5 - US 1 DPN's

This is the 3rd time I made the Jaywalker socks! This pattern is pretty addictive I think. Although I think I may be getting bored with it, because I just started my 4th pair using it and I'm already like, "Okay I need to do another pattern." The yarn was AWESOME to knit with, too. I highly recommend it, AND it was a good price for sock yarn.

Anyways, here are the pics. They're kinda big so dial-up beware.

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tattoo

a couple FO's

i recently finished a couple projects that have started to boost my confidence and make me want to explore new things.  :-)  first was a hat that i had intended to be for my boyfriend.  nice basic hat for the winter, seed stitch band and stockinette for the rest.  i measured his head, i checked my gauge, i think i even remember swatching.  finish it and finally get him to put it on his head and it's too big.  before i got too bummed and upset i realized this was the first thing in 100% wool that i had done and decided to try felting.  i tried to hand felt first (with 2 little kids i couldn't stand in front of the washer to check it every few minutes).  but i couldn't get it to felt as much as i wanted and it didn't seem even.  so i tossed it in the wash for a full cycle (i figured worst case scenario i'd end up with a hat that fit my daughter or a toy).  and came out with a nicely felted hat imo.  it shrunk more vertically than it did in circumference but i think it fits me pretty well.  i was pretty proud.  now i want to play with felting more.  second project is a scarf for my sister.  i was all thrilled about finishing my boyfriend's hat because i thought that finally i wsa at a breaking point to make something for myself.  hah!  i'd forgotten that my little sister had mentioned that a good b-day present for her would be a scarf to match the hat i'd made for her graduation.  sigh.  sooo, i had been all set to attempt a mobius scarf for myself (i've had Bordhi's Treasury of Magical Knitting for over a year and i've been dying to do it but at the same time a little put daunted).  hmm, sister needs scarf.  hey, make her a mobius!  i think i could've made it wider but i like it and it was fun.  things i learned with this one, the mobius cast on and elastic bind off.  wish i'd known about the bind off sooner.  i really like it.  i cast on last night a hat from the book (jeweled merino hat i think it's called).  i'm a little worried that the band is going ot be waaaaay to big for a head, it's hard to tell with it still on the needles.  guess we'll find out...  anyway. 
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backup and veronica

Fetching and Toni Morrison

This is my first post in this community. I have been knitting for a few years, off and on, mainly just doing scarves, fingerless gloves and blankets. I just finished Fetching using KnitPicks Decadence yarn (%100 superfine alpaca). I think it knit up just fine, except that the yarn doesn't show off the cables very well. They're still warm and soft to wear, so I don't mind so much. This was my first time venturing into cables, which is why I chose the pattern. The cables seemed easy enough to do.

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Also, I found this marvelous yarn at the Nine Rubies in San Mateo, Ca. I love it so much but I don't know what to do with it. I bought two hanks thinking I would do a small blanket or a shawl...but I am not sure.

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Anyways, its Schaefer Yarn, Miss Priss, Toni Morrison color. I have 560 yards of it...100% merino and the gauge is about 4.5st/in in size 8 needles. Has anybody knitted with this particular yarn or anything similar to it? I just love hugging this yarn...though not smelling it because it still needs a washing.
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haruko

(no subject)

hello, i'm a long time lurker, first time poster, yadda yadda.
i'm a bit of a novice when it comes to knitting, but i've crocheted since i was seven or eight, and i learn fast.

hokay, so, here's my dilema.
for christmas this year, i am making stuffed animals for my friends.
now, i've already looked through the tags for the community, and i found a few patterns that i'm excited to use, but i was wondering if anyone had any other patterns, for 'weird' animals, i guess you could say. like, things beyond teddy bears and cats and dogs.
specifically i would say fish, giraffes, elephants, koala, etc.

i've googled, but i must be doing something wrong because i'm not really finding what i'm looking for.


well, thank you all in advance, and i promise i'll post some FO's soon. ;]
muffin

pattern help and casting on question

I have one skein of Malabrigo worsted that I want to make a hat from. The hat will be for a gift. I am getting 5" stitches per inch. Any suggestions of interesting but functional hat patterns to make with this yarn that will still show the pretty Malabrigo colorway?
Also, what is your favorite cast on for ribbing in the round? Thanks
<3Life

Sock Math.

Can someone help me with my math? I'm not sure if I''m doing it right. Ok, so I'm not sure what I'm doing. *laughs*

I'm making my first sock ever! Go me! And I'm at the turning the heel part. I've ad-libbed and now I'm working from a pattern. I need to adjust the pattern to fit.

I cast on 72 stitches. The pattern calls for 60. The gauge is the same.

Where I am, the pattern says to: Slip the first stitch, P17, P2TOG, P1. Turn.
I did some math and I figured instead I should slip the first, P20, P2 TOG, P1 and turn. I really only adjusted the first set of purled stitches.

Am I way off, or will this work? I kinda did a proportion and rounded it from that. It made sence to me earlier atleast....If you're coming up with diffrent numbers, can you tell me how you came to them? Please? TIA

help with pattern-Fuzzy Reception

I'm kniting the Fuzzy Reception Cardigan from Knitpicks.

At the begining of the pattern, it states: At the end of each row, WYIF Sl1P. Then after you work some stuff... there is this part.


Diagonal Slip Stitch Pattern:
Rows 1 & 3: Work even in purl. Rows 2 & 4: K1, *insert needle from behind under the running yarn between the st just worked and the next st, putting an extra loop on the needle; k2, then pass the extra loop over the 2 k sts. Rep from *, end k1.



Now my question.. do I continue with the edging part from the top... or was that only for the part I was working on???
knitting spock

(no subject)

I'm knitting GIR from Invader Zim.  The pattern for his body calls for a cast-on halfway through the knitting:


On the fourth and fifth rows, work to the end of the row, then cast on one stitch, resulting in 13 stitches at the end of the fifth row. 


Is that like an increase, or do I actually need to cast-on?  Also, I usually use the cast-on method with two ends of the yarn (two tail cast on, I think?).  What sort of cast on do I use here, because obviously that one doesn't apply here.

Also, can anyone recommend a good increase that is not obvious and does not leave a hole?  

I'm a very novice knitter and may be getting in over my head with GIR, but I really want to knit him and I feel like I could learn the techniques.  You guys are a great support group.

Thanks for any advice!

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    aggravated aggravated

fulling advice needed

So, I know that stockinette curls and why. What I am wondering is if anyone knows... if I knit a large rectangular piece of stockinette in 100% wool, and then stick it in the washing machine to full it, and then block it before drying... will it still be curled once it's dry? Or will the fulling/blocking process flatten it out?

I'm wanting to make a knitted and fulled messenger-type bag and I'm making my own pattern as I go. My intent is to knit a long rectangular piece to be the sides and flap, and then a really long skinny piece to be the strap and end gussets of the bag. I want to sew it together after the fulling process is done. I first started trying to do it in the round like the messenger bag on Knitty, and the circular needle drove me nuts so I frogged it. Will it work if I just use a piece of stockinette, or should I add a border to the sides to keep it straight and flat?

Thanks!

question about frogging.

I knitted my daughter a pair of longies ( pants that go over a cloth diaper. knit from the waist down, grafted in the crotch). Well I measured her, measured the knit, then measured her again. I knitted it, tried it on her, and it is to short in her rise. I am soo annoyed. It is like 2 inches too short. I honestly don't know what I did, but obviously I didnt measure the work right.

I really don't want to have to unravel both legs, just to knit the rise longer, then reknit the legs again. I did this out of noro and I got the striping on the legs almost perfect. Is there a way I can unravel the top(starting at the cast on edge)? I know I could cut the waist band off and then unravel and pick up stitches. But honestly, I can't cut my knitting. I just don't have the heart too.

Any suggestions?


TIA

Recommended Yarn: Knitting Fair Isle Mittens and Gloves

I intend to make make a pair of mittens from Carol Rasmussen Noble's book, Knitting Fair Isle Knitting and Gloves, but I'd like to double check the yarn that's called for, as I've never seen it written in this manner. It is as follows:


Materials: 100% Shetland Wool (1 ounce [56g] = approx. 150 yards [136m].) 1 ounce (56g) main color and small quantities of contrasting colors for chosen stitch pattern. But 1 ounce = 28.35g. The required weight in grams, 56g, is equivalent to 2 ounces.

Needles: Set of 5 double pointed (size 1) or size to obtain gauge.

Gauge: 32 stitches and 32 rounds = 4 inches.


Based on that information, I used this table and a little math to deduce that the pattern calls for fingering weight yarn (2400/16=150 yards per ounce). Right? I brought the book and my calculations to my LYS, and the owner was confounded. She tried to sell me DK, but I demurred, as I thought it would be too heavy.


If fingering weight is indeed correct, I am considering using Jamieson's Simply Shetland 2-ply Spindrift. For those of you who have worked with the yarn, would you recommend it for crisp and hard-wearing colorwork? Is there another wool (of similar affordability) that you'd recommend more highly?

Thank you!

ETA: Bold notations. The stated weight in ounces is a fingering weight. However, in grams it is a DK. Has anyone made this specific pattern before? I suppose I'll see if I can find an email for the designer.