I'm working on a piece of trim for a cardigan. It's mosaic knitting in garter stitch knit back-and-forth. The problem is that my stranding is ending up on both sides instead of on the wrong side. I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I've done mosaic before, but it was stockinette and in the round.
So, I have this nice large, new bottle of Eucalan Woolwash, and was about to set out washing and blocking FO's for Christmas giving. Then I realized that the yarns are mostly not wool.
Is a lanolinizing no-rinse wash suitable for fibers that don't naturally have lanolin? Is it going to weigh down my fluffy alpaca, or dim the luster of the mohair, or gum up the silk? Does it attract or hold dirt? The Eucalan website, of course, says "Recommended for all fine fabrics," but they may have different criteria (not degrading the fibers isn't enough; I want them to look and feel their best, too). And I'd rather hear it from persons without a financial investment in the answer, anyway. So, what's your experience?
(And, umm, hi. I've been hanging around in the comments for many months now, but this is my first Top Level Post. *waves* )
I think I am going to make socks. Forget the sweater for right now... I need to just make socks. I need socks desperatly!!!!! Seriously. 1/2 of mine have holes.
they are mismatched patterns.. But they are ALL BLACK. Makes my life much easier. No one is looking at my feet anyway.. SO most days I just pick up two somewhat similar socks and put them on my feet. I don't care. Again. Rarely does anyone look at my feet. But they are all black!! I wear mostly dark clothes and all my shoes are black too. My life is MUCH easier if i don'thave to root around for shoes that match an outfit. But I am getting into the knitting sock realm. EEEK... Which means. Unless I am committed to making only black or dark colored socks.. I will be having to flash a bit more of ankle. I may be showing a bit more color too... and that means that I may end up having socks that don't match... and with them being colorful... folks might start to notice!!! Is this a committment I want to take on? IT is a big step.! I have seen many wonderful colorful sock yarns... hmmmmm I am being tempted to step out of my comfortable space and into some unknown territory....COLOR!
I am heading down that path of crazy catlady with the mismatched socks.. EEEEEEEEK.. What Have I embarked upon!!??
Hi all! Sorry to spam all of you with more newbie questions, but the instructions for putting together the no-hood (for lack of yarn) ChildHood are confusing me. It says (basically) after blocking / fishing the pieces, I'm supposed to:
1) join back and front shoulders together (3-needle BO) - not a problem 2) make front bands and slip st them into place - I assume I block and finish these too! 3) pick up stitches for neck band and knit - a little math, a little patience, can do... 4) sew sleeves into armholes - ?? 5) sew side and sleeve seams - ??
I haven't begun finishing because I'm wondering about step 4 and 5. Do I really sew the sleeves into the armholes before seaming the sides/sleeves? All I've finished before this are scarves and shawls, which had no seams to speak of.
I want to make slipper socks for my co workers but I want to make them a bit grippier. Is there some fabric glue or something out there that one can put on to mimic the grippy socks that are on the market?
I"m making a baby hat out of Lamb's Pride bulky (doubled). I figured out my gauge and I'm getting 4sts/in. I want to make this hat: http://www.geocities.com/knitwits_heaven/babyhat.html which calls for casting on 45 sts. With my gauge to get the size I want, I will need to cast on about 64sts. The question I have is regarding the decreases. I don't want to decrease too sharply, and following these instructions would probably result in a weird shape because I'm casting on 20 more sts then they are. Can anyone offer a little guidance on doing the decreases on this so it comes out right?
But I don't understand this and am hoping for a suggestion or two. I really want to make Eiffel from the new Knitty. So I'm reading over the pattern, and looking at the measurements that should result.
From the photos in the pattern, this is supposed to be a fairly fitted sweater, right? And if I knit the medium size, the finished chest measurement is just about perfect for me. But look at the sleeves! You're supposed to increase up to 62 sts, then work that in the 3x4 rib to the underarm. At 4 sts/inch, that's 15.5". Even with the ribbing pulling in a little, that is going to be way too big. The widest part of my upper arm is 11.5" around!
Since I can, y'know, buy clothes from stores, I don't think I am wildly disproportionate. But I just don't see how these sleeves are going to fit me well at all, from reading over the pattern. Is there something I'm not understanding here?
*sigh* I have made many, many small objects, but I have never managed to make a decent sweater for myself, and I feel like I need to conquer the sweater to really call myself a knitter! :P
One of my friends is going to be hitchiking down to Portland from Montana via Seattle the day after Christmas, and being the pseudo-grandmother that I am, I've decided that the boy needs a pair of good mittens or his fingers are going to freeze off. I'm looking for a fairly simple pattern for some serious felted mittens. I'd prefer one that produces mittens that can be worn on either hand so I can give him a set of three, in case of mitten loss, but that's not absolutely necessary. I tried Google. Thanks!
Hat 1: A cabled hat I made for my father for Christmas. It was based on this pattern, but I improvised the crown to match the cable pattern better. In the original, the top was all stockinette. I used Lion Brand "Wool" in ebony, and size 8(i think)circular needles with the magic loop technique. ( Collapse ) Hat 2: Another pattern from headhuggers.org. I saw this aviator cap all over craftster.net and fell in love with it. This hat was the first time I used short rows in a project other than socks. They seemed really complicated by the way the pattern was written, but I got the hang of it quickly. I also added icords and tassels to the bottom of each earflap. I used microspun and size 4 needles. ( Collapse )
Scarf: When I look at the pattern and yarn in this project separately, they're both kind of "eh" to me. But when they come together......... magic. Really. I used the pattern Danica on Knitty and Paton's SWS in natural earth(I think). I just have a WIP shot now, but I'm really looking forward to getting more yarn because I already love it soooo much. ( Collapse ) Thanks for looking!
I'm interested in knitting the Malagaiter hat as a (so last minute) Christmas gift but I'm confused about general knitted hat sizing. According to the pattern, the S/M is 18.5in and the M/L is 21in. My head is about 21in and I'm assuming my sister (the giftee) has a similarly sized noggin. My question is, how much ease do you factor into a knit hat? I'll be making the brioche pattern which looks rather stretchy. Any suggestions on which size to cast on for? If my head is the same exact size as the M/L would I go smaller so the hat isn't too big?
So maybe this is a dumb question, but I've looked around and haven't been able to find anything...
The concept of short rows is foreign to me. I don't understand what it means when it says stop at the specified point and turn your work. Does turning your work mean taking everything off and turning it around? I'm really clueless--I've been trying to figure it out to no avail.
Also, what yarns have you all been using for Calorimetry? I have no LYS so I was hoping to work out of my stash. I've got some Red Heart Bright & Lofty super bulky yarn and some sport weight and worsted weight. *I've also been reading stuff about how 120 stitches is wayyyy too big--so what would you all recommend? I'll probably knit this on #10 needles, because I'm a tight knitter (not sure if that makes a difference to the amount of stitches.)
I'm currently having bind-off woes with a Rainy Day Scarf. I started knitting this a while ago in an 8 ply and it hasn't been finished due to trying to figure out a suitable bind-off for a k2, p2 rib. I've tried just a simple bind-off following the pattern and it flares badly. I'm wondering if anybody has any suggestions to share on a suitable bind-off please? I used a cable-cast on so something similar in effect that would be fantastic.
I finished a scarf for my mom that used a pattern from Stitch 'n' Bitch Nation...baby/mock cables, I forget what the actual pattern name was. It's knit with Lana Gatto's Sestriere yarn (discontinued, I believe), which is 65% wool, 20% alpaca, and 15% mohair, about a ball and a half. The scarf in the book wasn't blocked out, but I wanted this one to be so I could get a lacier effect, which my mom likes. The 'wrong' side still looks nice even stretched out (without the blocking, it looks like stocking stitch - but without the curling edges), whew! I made it nice and long so it could be looped around the neck twice so it would still be warm despite the lace, though the mock cables still give it a decent weight. ( Collapse ) I really like the pattern - I've already made a scarf for a friend and one for myself in the pattern, all with different yarns and fibers, and all three have turned out well.
Row 7: (Right side) K6, *K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3 repeat from *, end last repeat with K2, then K4
(you will be 6 sts from the end of the needle).
So, I should have 6 stitches remaining on my left needle? Do I just slip them?
edit: oh...actually, I just messed up the pattern and was left with too many stitches so I thought I did something wrong. But, it was helpful to have something clarified for me. :P *feels silly* thanks..
hello all! i searched the community's tags and couldn't really find what i was looking for and i also googled so i have some ideas. anyway, i will be visiting san francisco and napa valley next week on a short vacation and was hoping to visit a few local yarn stores in those areas...i don't want to venture too far off from where i will be staying - the carlton hotel on sutter street, or too far from the touristy areas that i'll be visiting (fisherman's warf/ghiradelli square/union square, various napa valley wineries) since i'll only really be there for a couple of days. i know that artfibers is very close to my hotel (on the same street) so i'll probably be making a stop there also maybe knitting yarn store also on the same street...
First, where do I begin to work the cables? Do I start it on the first stitch of needle 1? For some reason, I'm thinking that I should start it on the middle of needle 2. Any suggestions?
Also, I think I would rather have ribbing all the way throughout the armwarmer instead of switching to stockinette somewhere within the pattern. If I continue ribbing, will that change how the warmer fits?
I've never had to join another ball of yarn before because I've never done any big projects, but I'm just wondering what the best way is to join the same color of yarn. From what I've seen and read, I don't have to knot anything? Just knit 3 and then cut it. But with that, won't it unravel somehow? Should I knot it?
sorry for such a stupid question, but I have a few scarves that I need to get done and I'm pretty sure I'll have to attach extra yarn for them.