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December 19th, 2006 - Knitting! — LiveJournal
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i___speak_whale
knitting
i___speak_whale
Hello! Earlier today I was at Goodwill, and I found these huge skeins of yarn for only 99 cents each, so I grabbed 5 skeins...
However.....once I got home I  realized that I have no idea whatsoever how I should use this yarn.
As you can see, they are an extremely vivid orange, so I have no idea how to give the yarn a more serene effect.
I guess I'm looking for an interesting scarf/accessory/hat/bag/headband/pillow pattern that I could use this yarn up on? Or a pattern that, if I wore it, I wouldn't look really really strange?
I would make something for a friend, but I can't seem to find a friend that would appreciate the vibrant color of this yarn!
30 stitches made | Knit 1
ak_neve
knitting
ak_neve
I'm working on the Austrian Patterned Knee Socks from Socks Socks Socks, and I'm a wee bit confused.

I cast on 104 stitches, got through the pain of folding over and picking up from the cast on edge. Now I'm told to increase 32 st evenly around for a total of 136 st. My brain has forgotten how to figure out what math formula is needed to figure out what my "inc even" numbers would be. Help!

And for the help... Elfine Sock FO photos +3Collapse )
9 stitches made | Knit 1
justtakisha
knitting
justtakisha
So I'm working on my first shawl but I'm having a problem.
I'm having a problem finding a pattern that only calls for 300yrd or so of yarn.
I have a nice skein of worseted weight yarn, sort of a burgundy color. I also have 6 other projects going on but this will be my hardest one to date. Or I'm making myself even more nervous by thinking about it too much.
If not a shawl, then a nice couch blanket? like a throw? I can spare more yarn, I just want to get it off my present list.

Another thing, drop stich? same as slipping? or am I just confusing myself at 3am?
did this make sense?

Current Mood: anxious anxious

14 stitches made | Knit 1
alien_sunset
knitting
alien_sunset
I was recently knitting a pair of Fetching, when somebody mentioned to me that they were putting off making a pair of their own, because they were afraid to try the thumb trick, it was too confusing.

So I wrote up a tutorial and posted it on my blog.
And now I'm posting it here, because somebody else mentioned that maybe you all would like to see it too.

Sometimes called an afterthought thumb, I first read about the thumb trick in Elizabeth Zimmermann's Knitter's Almanac.

This method is used in fetching but it is also very common in a lot of stranded, and Norwegian style type mittens.

I really like this method because it's seamless; sometimes when patterns have you place stitches on a holder and then cast on the top stitches you can get an odd seam right in the crease where your thumb meets the hand, and that can be uncomfortable.

The only trouble that some people may have with this method is that you cannot immediately try on your mitten in progress, as you can with mittens where the stitches are put on holders. But if you want to you can just knit a few more rows and then pick up the stitches instead of waiting until the mitten is done, threading the waste yarn through them so you can try on your mittens as you knit.

The trick:Collapse )

If you have any comments or questions or if there is any way that I can make this easier to understand, please feel free to contact me!

Tags: ,
Current Mood: productive

11 stitches made | Knit 1
kiri_bean
knitting
kiri_bean
Hello all,

I'm thinking of knitting this in cotton for summer wear. Also, I'd prefer a tighter (less holey) knitting yarn (so I have the option of not wearing a tank top underneath).

I've been looking at Knitpicks Shine (Worsted) and Butterfly Super 10 (also known as Tahki Cotton Classic to those of you south of the border).

I've never knit with either of these. Does anyone recommend one over the other, or should I just suck it up, buy a bit of each and swatch away.

Thanks,
-Kiri.

Tags:

13 stitches made | Knit 1
mudflapgirl
knitting
mudflapgirl
What can I do with three balls of DebbieBliss Cashmerino Aran? I don't have kids so I was hoping to make something other than a scarf for myself, but it's not nearly enough for an adult garment. Any thoughts??
5 stitches made | Knit 1
wingsrising
knitting
wingsrising
So, I'm knitting Tubey from Knitty. I think I've finally taken care of my sleeve issues and the at the moment the tube seems to fit. However, in the interests of producing a top that I can wear to work without embarrassing my advisor (and one that I can wear a bra with), the neckline is higher than that shown in the photo.

As a result, the part of the sweater under the neckline is quite a bit shorter than the part of the sweater under the back. (For those not familiar with it, Tubey is a rectangle-with-sleeves style shrug with a ribbed tube knit onto it to make the body of a sweater. The rectangle on mine takes up a lot more length on the back than it does on the front, thus making the back of the sweater longer than the front.) At the point of maximum difference (right under the neckline) it's about 4"-5" shorter than the back.

I'd like my sweater to be the same length all around and am contemplating putting in short rows to compensate. I've never done short rows and have some questions.

It seems like the most obvious thing to do is to put in short row bust shaping. (I was thinking of doing it as described in the "Shapely Tank" pattern.) I assume this would mean knitting until the back of the sweater is level with the bottom of my bust, then knit short-rows until the length of the front matches the length of the back. However, I see two problems with this:

1. 4" is a lot of bust shaping
2. I don't have much bust. I fill a B-cup on a good day, so there's not enough there to fill huge quantities of bust shaping.

So I guess my question is: will knitting all those short rows work OK despite my non-bustiness, because the front of the sweater is shorter intrinsically (not due to the effects of my bust as in normal short-row bust shaping). Or am I going to get a big cup on the front of my sweater that I'm not qualified to fill?

I may be wrong but it seems like the other short-row possibility is to just knit down to the hem, then short-row the front until it matches the back. I gather people with similar Tubey isses have done this with some success. Of course, a third possiblity is to put in a few short rows at the bust and then the rest down at the hem.

Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Of course, next step is to do the math for the short rows, but that's another issue. :-)

Current Mood: confused confused

9 stitches made | Knit 1
maribella_ella
knitting
maribella_ella
Ever since the new Knitty came out, I have been itching to make Corazón, but since I've never done fair isle before, I thought I should practice the colorwork before I got to work on the actual mittens. I cast on enough for four repeats of the pattern and worked it in the round, so I could practice using DPNs, as well. I had not intended to use it for anything, but one of my friends saw me working on it, and asked if it was going to be a hat. I originally said no, but decided that it would actually make a very good hat, and finished with the appropriate decreases.

The question I have for you all is about blocking. Since it was my first real fair isle project, my tension is a little wonky and some of the stitches are sort of hiding. How can I best block fair isle to make the color pattern most apparant? I've read the post from a few days ago on how to block hats in general, but I am wondering if there are any special fair isle tricks.

Some photos so you can see what I'm talking about:
My fair isle hat!Collapse )


The yarn is two types that I just happened to have in my stash. The light blue is Caron Simply Soft, which is 100% acrylic and the dark blue is Berroco Softwist, 59% Rayon and 41% Wool. I know that natural fibers block better, so the acrylic won't have much memory. I'm planning to block it anyway and hopefully still see some improvement. If it doesn't change, I'll still wear it (my family are very impressed already!), but I'm betting you all will have some great tips for me. :)

Any advice is much appreciated. If you have helpful hints on fair isle knitting in general, my technique is far from perfect, so I'd appreciate that as well.

Tags: , , ,

20 stitches made | Knit 1
hottoastermama
knitting
hottoastermama
I have family visiting in February, and while they will not receive holiday hand-knits this month I would like to surprise them with some java sleeves when they arrive. A gift card to a coffee house will be thrown in to sweeten the deal. I have a few more to make up (these are so quick to knit even if you aren't speedy, I can make one in 2 hours or less), but I figure with so many who like to do holiday knitting and feeling the pressure of the deadline that I would share two I've done so far for ideas on a last minute hand made gift. (Knitpicks also has a felted version to download for free here.)

Pattern: Java a Go Go java sleeve by Mariko Fujinaka, Magknits Issue 1.
Yarn: Racy (limited info, see ball band photo under cut), double stranded. Elsebeth Lavold's Silky Wool in green and orange. You could pump out sets of java sleeves from one skein of each.
Needles: US 2 Clover dpn's with Racy, US 3 Knitpicks dpn's with Silky Wool.
Gauge: 24 sts = 10cm (I was more concerned with stitch gauge than row gauge while I tinkered with the pattern a bit, but don't get too far off.)
Size: Fits a grande size coffee nicely.


Notes and photos under cut.Collapse )
7 stitches made | Knit 1
glowkitty
knitting
glowkitty
I've scoured through the memories, but I still haven't found a straight answer. I'm about to finish this Hogwarts scarf pattern. I used different brands for the different stripe colors, but I know they're both worsted weight. However, the lighter color seems to be tighter and those stripes aren't even with the darker color. My question is, can I somehow shape the yarn so the widths of all stripes are equal? The yarn is at least 80% acrylic. :/ Thanks in advance!
7 stitches made | Knit 1
ithilelentari
knitting
ithilelentari
Quick question: I searched the community but only came up with hats knitted in wool-ease, not the ease built into a hat. Hence my question: how much negative ease do you usually knit hats with? I would just try it on the head in question to see what they thought was comfortable, but it's a present, so that wouldn't work so very well.

Thanks!

Edit: I am apparently blind, and have been pointed to the answer. Thanks again!
3 stitches made | Knit 1
stateof
knitting
stateof
I found a stitch pattern for a lace rib on knitty.com (here) that I would like to use in a scarf, but I would like to use straight needles instead of circular. In order to convert the pattern would I simply read it backwards and on alternating lines, change purl to knit and knit to purl?

example:
circular
Round 1: [P2, k2tog, yo, k1] to end.
Rounds 2: [P2, k3] to end.
Round 3: [P2, k1, yo, ssk] to end.
Rounds 4: [P2, k3] to end.

converted for straight
Round 1: [P2, k2tog, yo, k1] to end.
Round 2: [P3, K2] to end.
Round 3: [P2, k1, yo, ssk] to end.
Round 4: [P3, K2] to end.
3 stitches made | Knit 1
knitting
alphaalias
I'm interested in knitting a pattern of something like Hounds-tooth.
I am in love with this pattern or something similar to it. I think the link above is a more modernized version or something.

So first of all, do you guys think this pattern would even show up nicely in knitting? I've searched for some kind of chart but couldn't find anything. If anybody could either find me a chart or draw me one that would be awesome, thanks! :)
5 stitches made | Knit 1
phoenix_fbrwrks
knitting
phoenix_fbrwrks
After I finish the last of my holiday knitting, and in between a couple of other small projects, I'm looking to knit my first sweater. For me. I have a
pattern that I'm leaning towards (Sahara). There are many good things that recommend it, namely that it's knit top down, can be tried on as I go, has different sleeve versions, and meets all my structural wants (v-neck, bell sleeved, worsted weight yarn). It's the worsted weight yarn part that inspires me to question this community.

The question is... What are your favorite worsted weight yarns? I have a couple of caveats, namely:

1. I'm sensitive to coarse wools, but would prefer a wool or wool blend.
2. If I'm going to put all that work in I'd like something that won't pill too badly after just a few wearings. I know that the softer yarns I'd need tend to pill, but are there any that balance between durable and soft?
3. I can't spend $200 on a sweater.

So what yarn would you recommend under those conditions? The gals at my knitting night unanimously recommend Cascade 220... any others?

Current Mood: curious curious
Current Music: Frank Sinatra - The Christmas Song (S K Y . F M - The Christmas Channel)

27 stitches made | Knit 1