December 22nd, 2006

And yet another question.

I'm sure it is apparent now that I'm not a monogamous knitter. It seems that I've finished a whole slew of projects and am now casting on for the next bunch. So one more question for you fabulous-fiber-freaks: I'm starting the Highland Triangle Shawl in Folk Shawls and am substituting yarn. While I am aware of the fact that gauge doesn't entirely matter I am confusing myself to exactly what it will do if it is off. Now for details: the gauge specified in the pattern is 14 sts and 26 rows= 4" in garter stitch. In my yarn I am getting (after blocking) 20 sts and 26 rows = 4". This will make a slightly smaller shawl, correct? Or am I backwards? Also, when substituting yarn for something like a shawl, do I keep the yardage amount the same if I am going to follow the pattern exact. If not, how do I estimate the amount. I've read a few contratidictory blurbs on the latter question and just want to make sure. Thanks again everyone!
Edit I wanted to add a bit about the yarns involved. The pattern calls for Woolpak N.Z. 8 ply with 1050 yards worth. 100% wool. It is labeled as a double knit yarn receiving 20 stitches x 29 rows on #5 needles.
The yarn that I would like to substitute is Karabella's Boise 50% cashmere, 50% superfine merino wool. It is labeled as receiving 22 sts x 24 r on #5 needles.

Newbie here! Book enquiry

Hiya I found this community the other day and i've only recently gotten intoknitting and I want to go further.  Has anyone here got any real good books that they can recommend to be?  I want one that describes everything in detail and/or one(or more) hat have really cool patterns in them.  I want to make cool things!  Thanks :)

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I'm sewing together the pieces of Norberta, and the spike part is waaaaaaaaay longer than the back piece it's supposed to be sewn to.

Has anyone else encountered this, and could possibly suggest a solution? I used Simply Soft with one strand worked instead of two strands of Crayon, on size 7 needles.
  • asyrol

Worst Hat Ever.

Since I've started knitting/crocheting at work, I've had all sorts of requests for items and I'm always happy to oblige in exchange for the cost of the yarn. This one adorable teen asked for a camoflague toque with ear flaps to match his camo jacket. I purchased (way too much) snow ghost camo yarn by Bernat and it arrived Wednesday evening. I spend Thursday on and off making this hat on the Bernat website:
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The short of it is that I will be a little ashamed to even donate this hat to charity, let alone give it to the recipient. The pattern calls for a ball of Main Colour and a ball of contrast, so I bought 3 balls in total. The had (complete with braided ties) took maybe 3/4 of a ball, so I've got plenty of this left. I'd like to burn this hat and just start over. On circular needles. Except I've yet to knit in the round. I've come up with a general pattern that I'd like to run by all of you more experienced knitters to see what you think!

on size 8 circs (the original pattern called for 8s and the fabric is nice), knit first earflap, break yarn and leave earflap on cable. Knit second earflap, cast on enough stitches for front of hat, join second earflap, cast on enough stitches for back of hat. Knit in the round (you just keep going and going in a spiral, right?) until the hat is long enough, then start decreasing evenly to finish off hat.

Sounds good?

Squid Hat

So I'm desperately trying to finish the giant knitted squid that's been so popular-- I have to have it done by Christmas and I still have a lot to do.

I'm working on the body and am a little bit confused. On basically every other row the pattern has some variation of this:

Knit to first marker, K17, knit in stitch below stitch just knitted, K1, knit in stitch below next stitch. Knit to next marker. K17, knit in stitch below stitch just knitted, K1, knit in stitch below next stitch, knit across.

The bolded part is what's confusing me. Does this make a decrease? Or an increase? What does it do, and why is it there? And what exactly is it saying to do? I've been doing what I think its saying, and it doesn't seem to be doing much, and if it's just to add texture I'm going to skip it and just knit the rounds so that I can finish this thing before Monday morning, but if it's supposed to change the stitch count I don't want to have to frog--

Anyone who's knitted this have any suggestions? Maybe the wording is just what's confusing me, but I'd love some advice!

Thanks again for any help!

EDITED: Thanks everyone! I figured it out-- just one of those knitting moments when you make something ten thousand times more complicated then it actually is. FO pictures to follow--hopefully by the 25th!

The Gift of Books

I was hoping I might be able to receive some help from some of you!

As we all know, the Christmas holiday is fast approaching! My mother is unfortunate enough to have her birthday the day after Christmas. I've bought her all of her Christmas presents, but I have yet to find her a birthday present. After much deep thinking last night, I decided I would get her a couple of knitting books. She's been eyeing my copy of One Skein by Leigh Radford for quite a while so I'm planning on getting her that, but I also want to get her another one or two. (Note: She already has the book Sensational Knitted Socks)

A little information about my mother's knitting practices: she knits primarily socks, usually for gifts and she buys some really gorgeous yarn too. She's been known to knit other things, but it's always something that people can use and things that are useful.

There are just so many knitting books out there, it's really hard to decide what to get! What are some of your favorite knitting books that would be useful for a sock knitter to have.

Monkey socks - a "WIP" soon to be frogged

Soon after the Winter Knitty was released, I had a cross-country flight, so I cast on for the Monkey socks with my recently acquired Koigu KPPPM, which I'd purchased as a gift to myself. Since I was anxious to get started, I didn't actually do a gauge swatch, despite my good intentions -- the rib met the gauge, I was knitting on size 2 DPNs, with just 4 stitches more than the socks I'd just finished, so everything seemed fine. That was my first mistake.

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Since the Monkey pattern doesn't show up all that well in the darker colors, I was wondering if anyone has suggestions for a different pattern that might better show off the yarn. What would be better suited to two skeins of beautiful Koigu KPPM in 446 Marine Royal? (It doesn't even have to be socks!) Thank you so much for your help.

Another newbie question- Stretching ribbing with mostly synthetic yarn?

Thanks to everyone for the advice on the suede yarn. I gave up on using it for now and have since made a few scarves have a hat in progress.

I'm knitting my mom a scarf in a bulky yarn that is 80% acrylic and 20% wool. I chose this because I chose a cream color, and I want it to be easy care in case of dirt or stains. It doesn't really get that cold here anyway, and wool might be too much for our weather.

Anyway, I've knit a good chunk of it, but I've decided that it's too narrow. I really don't want to start again since I'm running out of time, but I was wondering if I did try to get it wet and then pin it stretched out a bit to dry, if it would actually dry stretched and stay that way. Again, the yarn is only 20% wool. I don't need to stretch it a ton, just a bit to make it slightly less skinny.

Happy kitty

Does steam blocking = speed blocking??

So, I am knitting my mom a Braching Out for Christams and it's about 1/4 done...I figure no problem, I'm not seeing her until 8:00 Sunday night, should be able to get it finished by Sunday afternoon at the latest. Then I realize...It's lace! It will need to be blocked! If I don't finish it until Sunday there is no way it will dry in time!

I recall hearing about people steam blocking with an iron rather than the normal dunk/pin out method. My questions are:

1. Is this a quicker method than the normal way? If I steam block it Sunday afternoon will it dry right away?

2. Will steam blocking not open up the pattern as well as dunking/pinning would? Branching out is not the most complex and detailed of lace patterns, so do you think it will be OK?

Is there some other quick way to block it that I am not thinking of? Like, could I wet it and pin it out, then iron it dry? Or would that ruin it? I am using Elsebeth Lavold Silky Wool (65% wool, 35% silk)

B Y the sea

whyyy can't I find it???

I apologize in advance for this post. I wouldn't do it if I hadn't looked what feels like everywhere. And normally I'd just say pick something else, but this is a request by my best friend. I want to make it for her for Christmas and have been looking for 2 weeks. I apparently fail...

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I am absolutely in love with knitting with Babylash/eyelash. I'm almost done my scarf--my first project. You can't see any mistakes or anything. I tried knitting a scarf in garter stitch with Bernat's Softee Chunky and I can barely get past 5 rows, also I don't like how thick it comes out. Can anyone recommend something easy to knit with softee chunky yarn, and the stitch to go with it? I have black and white.

And I'm super excited because I found out Dollarama sells yarn/wool/various textures of yarn. Its 50g each and a dollar a piece.  It's probably not the best quality but I'm new to knitting so that's ok.
  • juldea

FO: Rogue (cardigan, short row, and ponytail opening mods)

This is the first sweater I have made for myself and the second sweater I have made at all, and I am THRILLED to have it done! I don't know when I began the actual knitting, but some LJ search has revealed that I bought the yarn on January 6, 2005 and was in progress soon after, so this has been just shy of a 2-year sweater.

Pattern is Rogue, made with Reynolds Candide yarn in color #10, "Green Heather." I did the cardigan modification found on the pattern page as well as two slight modifications of my own: a few short rows on the front for bust shaping, and a slight hood change that created a ponytail opening! It's a bit higher than I normally keep my ponytails, but it still works and creates a cute effect. I still have the option of sewing it closed if it turns out I never use it and it just makes my head cold. ;)

The below pictures were all taken with my cell phone camera (I'm at my mom's house for the holidays and no one has a "real" camera here), so please excuse the fuzziness. If you want to browse the pictures one by one rather than loading them all, start here in my gallery and use the little arrows to navigate to the right. If you don't mind loading them all on one page... Collapse )
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Worst case Ontario

Hot Head--Stitch and Bitch

I left my copy of SNB at work! Ack! I want to knit hot head but in one solid color in the largest size. I can't remember how many stitches I cast on. I have the decreases written down (long story), but I want to say 64 stitches? Can anyone verify this?
  • webhill

feeling dumb

I feel really stupid but I can't understand this pattern. I'm not even planning to knit it right now but I'd like to know that I could when I felt like it! So I'm looking at this:
and it states:

ABBREVIATIONS: ctr dbl dec
RS – Knit to within 1 st of ctr st. Slip 2 tog as if to knit, k1, pass 2 slipped sts over.
WS – Purl to within 1 st of ctr st. Slip 2 tog tbl as if to purl, p1, pass 2 slipped sts over.

and then in the actual directions, they use the "ctr dbl dec" abbreviation as follows:

2. Knit across, ctr dbl dec.

So, Ok. If you have 71 stiches when you get to row 2, does that mean that you'd knit 35 stitches, sl2 knitwise, k1, p2sso, knit to the end of the row?

Thanks. Sorry for being ignorant...