So, last night I began my Endpaper Mitts as a gift for my roommate. The pattern calls for an Italian Tubular Cast-On, and after many tries and a lot of close attention to this tutorial, I think I got it.
A few rows in, however, I'm having doubts. I know the cast-on's supposed to be stretchier than most, but this one is really loose: despite the 1x1 ribbing on the cuff, it doesn't really feel snug on my wrist.
Did I do something wrong? I pulled the inside string before joining in the round--should I have done it afterwards? What's the purpose of using this cast-on for the armwarmers, exactly, as opposed to a long-tail? Sorry I'm ignorant. :\
( Collapse ) Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
i recently completed some long-languishing knitting projects for some friends' kidlings, and i thought i'd share. some of my notes are a bit fuzzy becuase i have a bad habit of nearly completing a project and then casting it aside for months.
I live in New England and the winters can get unbearable. I work in Boston, so commuting on the bus and train can get you overheated if you are bundled up too much. I found a nice pattern for a cable headband and used some leftover yarn from another project.
This is pretty dumb, but here goes... I've been making hats, and I'm not really following a pattern. The Yarn Harlot talks about a rule for hat height - knit until the piece measures the height of the measurement of the hat-wearer's hand from base of palm to tip of longest finger and THEN doing the crown decreases per her recipe. Well, I tried doing this using my own hand as a guideline, and made a massive monstrosity of a hat that covered my eyes. So I checked it out on my husband and found that using his measurements, you still had a hat that was too big. I have big hands relative to my size; my husband has small ones. So I don't really understand how this could be happening.
Right now, I'm making a hat for a 2 yr old. I'm almost ready to do the crown decreases, I think - but I can't decide when to start them. Exactly how far from the cast-on edge should I let the hat grow before I start to decrease? I was planning on doing a pretty standard type of decreasing... K4, K2tog, all the way around; K a round, K3, K2 tog... etc.
Thanks for any advice. I feel stupid. Oh, and it isn't about the brim - the hats I made are too long even with the brim flipped up. But it's ok. I felted them. You can see one such hat on my knitting blog - http://knitworth.blogspot.com :)
wild_irises gave me my first lesson, then sogwife bought me Stitch 'N Bitch, some needles, and a yarn gift certificate. Behind the cut are photos of the scarf, both on and off of stonebender. The photos are courtesy of the lovely and talented loracs.
I used Lamb's Pride Bulky (85% wool / 15% mohair), and the directions for the Beginner's Basic I Go-Go Garter Stitch Scarf in Stitch 'N Bitch, but I was using 7.5 needles and not huge ones with extra-bulky yarn, so I just used more stitches across (24) to make it as wide as I wanted. This was really about learning the knit stitch for me. Well, that and giving my sweetie his long-desired scarf. :-)
For Christmas I received one skein of a 100% silk from Ozark Handspun. While I adore it, it's very loosely spun and seems to have a natural divide in it. It's also a very short skein, probably only 20 yards or so, and a super bulky weight. Each "half" of the yarn is roughly the diameter of my thumb.
Since I don't spin, I checked google and couldn't find the answer. Does anyone have an opinion on splitting the yarn in two so I could double the length and get a short scarf out of the yarn? Would I be destroying the integrity of this yarn?
I have ten balls of a chunky purple 100% wool yarn I picked up in the bargain bin at my LYS a couple of months ago. I don't think that, by itself, there's enough for a long-sleeved sweater, and I suspect that a sleeveless chunky sweater would be the kind of garment that would end up shoved to the back of the wardrobe and never quite working with an outfit. I have a suspicion it might work quite well as the base colour of the Fairly Easy Fair Isle from Stitch'N Bitch Nation, if I can find something of a similar gauge for the fair isle pattern.
The trouble is, there's no yardage on the ball band, and according to Google this yarn doesn't actually exist. The only information I have is that it's 'Jaeger Matchmaker Chunky', 100% wool (and no, it's definitely not the same as the Jaeger Extra Fine Merino Chunky, machine washable and in 50g balls. The ball band recommends size 6 needles (I'm guessing this means 6mm, as I'm UK based and a US 6 would be way too small), but doesn't give a recommended gauge or yardage.
Based on this, and on comparing it with other chunky yarns in the shop, I think it's probably about 60m per 50g ball, and the Brown Sheep Lamb's Pride Bulky would be a reasonable match to knit it with. However, this is only a hunch, and I can't look at the two together before buying as I can only get Lamb's Pride mail order. And I'm only guessing that I'd have enough to be the base colour of the sweater. Does anyone know any way to work out the yardage of a ball of yarn (apart from the obvious but messy one of unravelling it and measuring!)?
I'm making the Short Row Rib Scarv from Magknits but I prefer a wider scarf and I want to double the width. Instead of casting on 18 stitches, I would then cast on 36. I'm trying to decide how best to adjust the pattern to accomodate the larger width. Do I increase the rows for each triangle or do I double the number of stitches I knit in each row. Reading over pattern I don't see a problem with either method, but I'm probably missing something. Has anyone done something similar with this pattern? Any thoughts on the best method?
Today I bought some "Yarn Bee" yarn!! I got this certain type called "Jewelsong" that is like ribbon with fringe and "Cameo" which is this uber-soft yard. I know what to do with the Cameo but the Jewelsong, I have no clue...I tried to find a picture of it, but I didn't find one. Anyways, what sort of project can I do with Jewelsong? I haven't seen many patterns that use a ribbon/fringe yarn.
Ok, so I'm making the Tara sweater from The Celtic Collection by Alice Starmore. I haven't done much cable work before this, but I've certainly learned a lot from making this sweater!
I've just finished row 30 of the endless knot that's on the chest and I just noticed an error in approximately rows 13-14. It's a six stitch cable, all knitted. Unfortunately, I purled the three stitches on the cross so that part of the knot is missing. There are cable crosses right above these stitches on every right side row above it, so just deliberately dropping those stitches down to row 13 is kind of daunting to me.
Is there any way to fix this?
Can I stitch knit stitches on top of it (kind of like duplicate stitch)?
Or do I just swallow hard, and rip down to the affected row and start again. (I thought about putting in a lifeline around row 10, but noooo....I thought I had gotten the hang of it, so my lifeline is still hanging out at row 1.)
Hey everyone. I just started knitting the day before Christmas. My first project is supposed to be these quick socks.
Well, I was knitting away tonight and noticed that my "sock" (it's more of a rectangle right now) is getting bigger on one side...it looks more like a trapezoid. I have no way to post pictures so I am hoping that someone knows what I am talking about.
Hi everyone, I started to make the lace up opera gloves>, but got very confused by about the fifth row. It says: Next row: Knit across row picking up cast on sts and knitting them together with each st.
What? I tried to do exactly what it said, and pick up the cast-on stich directly below it, but it kinda looked terrible. Am I doing something wrong? What is it talking about? Help!
ETA: Thanks you guys, I'm going to try a different cast-on technique and see if that helps. I just wanted to make sure that a rolled type hem was the purpose. Thanks so much!
I went to my semi local yarn shop today, armed with some christmas money from my folks. I figured I could get about a project's worth of yarn, plus an extra skein or two of something fun. Instead, I hit the jackpot - because the store was having a sale. I picked up 2 sweaters worth of Araucania hand dyed yarns (one is 100% alpaca and the other is wool), as well as an extra skein in a different colorway. But wait. I also picked up 30 some odd skeins of various other cotton/wool/other yarns for a buck a piece, including Debbie Bliss wool cotton and Berrocco denim silk. All told, I got about 52 skeins for under $90. Now to knit it all!
(I did leave some of the dollar skeins behind. The store is Fiberworks in Ashton, MD.)
My question is this: I would like to knit this sweater from the spring Knit Scene. It's basically an empire waist v-neck. The bottom part is knit in the round as a straight tube. When this tube is connected to the top, there is extra fabric at the back, which is gathered with elastic. I'm afraid that this might end up being too bulky (I'm not thin), and was wondering about decreasing stitches as I go up the tube, so that the top end of the tube is roughly the size of my body.
Does this make sense? Does it seem like a reasonable alteration? Any pointers from those more in the know?
I just have a quick question. I'm making a purse/bag that I found by googling "flap down felted bag" (it's in a person's livejournal, which I don't think I'm allowed to link to, but I have the link if it's okay to post). I have a couple spots where there are holes, either from dropped stitches or accidental yarn overs. Since it's a felted bag, will these holes (which are about the size of a pencil eraser, and I only have 2 of them) shrink up to a non-noticeable size or should I frog back? One of the holes is a good 4 inches back. :( Yeah, I'm not really on top of noticing this kind of thing.
Otherwise I was thinking of putting some decorative buttons over the holes if they're still noticeable. The blue/purple/green cat ones would go well with the yarn I'm making the bag out of (Kureyon #166).
I'm in the midst of designing a sweater for my dad, and I have a question for all you design-savvy people. He wants something with cables, so I'm thinking of doing something like Girl From Auntie's simple Celtic cable in the middle with some smaller twists on the side. I'd been planning on doing a regular ribbed band at the bottom of the sweater body, but then I came across the lovely Zimmerman-style contrast hems on Brooklyn Tweed's sweater and would really like to try them out. My question is this: Since the hem would be in stockinette and the body would be cabled -- and would therefore pull in more than stockinette -- would I end up with a horribly flared bottom edge? Is there a way I can do this so that it will actually look good, or should I save this whole contrast hem idea for a different sweater?
And completely unrelatedly, while I'm at it: anybody have any ideas for a good project for a really pretty all-white skein of recycled silk?